-
With a population of 515,000, Matsuyama is the largest city on Shikoku, though still noticeably sleepier than cities of comparable size on the Japanese mainland. The city is situated in a river basin formed by the flow of the Ishite and Shigenobu rivers, and nestled between the Ishizuchi mountain range to the south and Takanawa Mountains to the north. The center of town is Matsuyama-shi Station (松山市駅, "Shieki" for short), south of of Matsuyama Castle, which serves as a hub for local trams, buses, and the private Iyotetsu train line. JR Matsuyama Station is a short walk west.
The climate of Matsuyama is overall mild and temperate - somewhat balmy in summer, with most rainfall occurring in late spring, and almost no snow in winter. However, the city's star attraction - Dōgo Onsen (道後温泉) - is a good time in any season, drawing serious hot spring enthusiasts and newcomers alike to its steamy waters. This public bathhouse is thought to be the oldest in Japan, a claim reinforced by its mention in the second oldest book of Japanese history, Nihon Shoki (720 AD).
But Dōgo and its surroundings are better known for their place in another classic Japanese book, Botchan (1906). Renowned novelist Natsume Sōseki (夏目漱石) wrote Botchan while living and working in Matsuyama as a teacher. Although the area does not come off well in the [wiki=62413a57c5e3dc51177995fa175d3286]Edo[/wiki]-phile's description, the town nevertheless celebrates the connection with a variety of events and displays.
Sōseki’s friend and mentor, Masaoka Shiki (正岡子規), was a native of Matsuyama and one of the four great masters of haiku. Born to a lower class samurai family, Shiki had a modest childhood. Thanks to his education and an uncle in public office, Shiki was able to enter Tokyo Imperial University to study philosophy and politics, and later became a journalist covering the Russo-Japanese War. His literary career began when he started criticizing the Edo period's iconic haiku artist Matsuo Bashō and praising Yosa Buson, whose work he felt was brief yet refined. Shiki is credited with revitalizing Japanese poetry and modernizing its themes, thus making the short verse once again relevant to modern Japanese culture.
Matsuyama's bastions of literary pride span centuries, and many of the city's attractions celebrate that heritage with unabashed cheer. In the words of one native, referring the character from Botchan (not the pop star): "We don't have geisha - we have Madonna!"
-
Tourist information
Internet access, study rooms, and bike rentals. It's behind the Ehime Prefectural Cultural Hall.
*
*
* Free English volunteer guides are available matsuyamacamellia@gmail.com. http://matsuyamavolunteerguide.jimdo.com
There are also information desks at the ferry terminal and Dōgo Onsen.
-
Climate
Matsuyama is hottest in July and August. January and February are the coldest months, with temperatures rarely getting below freezing.
-
-
By plane
Nonstop service from major airports such as [wiki=62413a57c5e3dc51177995fa175d3286]Tokyo[/wiki] Haneda, [wiki=10b22625bf8918f4fd3ae2f185bd44c8]Nagoya[/wiki] Komaki, [wiki=0d70a380fe641d8206c6d43c185b9c23]Osaka[/wiki] Itami and [wiki=f5d540492523ba1f8e1516239c6b60fb]Fukuoka[/wiki], as well as from [wiki=a52bef81a178806fb331ffa078e676b3]Okinawa[/wiki]. There are also direct flights to and from [wiki=fd38499c5c04df42d1d78807aa4b7d7d]Seoul[/wiki] and [wiki=5466ee572bcbc75830d044e66ab429bc]Shanghai[/wiki]. The Limousine Bus connects the airport to Dōgo Onsen, running at 20 minute intervals (¥450) via JR Matsuyama Sta (¥300).
-
By train
Matsuyama is on the JR Yosan Line. From the mainland, take the San'yo Shinkansen to [wiki=6a954cc6ab6730a93ce523fd7efb4cd4]Okayama[/wiki], and transfer to the Shiokaze Limited Express, which will get you to Matsuyama in about three hours (¥6630).
The Ishizuchi Limited Express connects Matsuyama with [wiki=d3ee2131a8c6afedec1bb60de263dbd8]Takamatsu[/wiki] on the eastern end of Shikoku (2 1/2 hours, ¥6010). The Uwakai and a few other limited express services run to [wiki=12ab43d379f7da6b46cacf20cd29d370]Uwajima[/wiki] (75 minutes, ¥3410). (Many limited express trains in Shikoku combine or divide with others at certain stations, so be sure you're in the correct part of the train.)
The Sunrise Seto overnight train from Tokyo departs at 10PM. It goes to Sakaide (坂出) station, the first stop after crossing the long Seto-Ohashi bridge, and the station before Takamatsu. After a 40-minute wait (during which you can get a bite to eat), take the Ishizuchi limited express to Matsuyama, arriving at 10AM. The Sunrise Seto is one of the few overnight trains in Japan with a shower on board. You can use the shower for a small fee, or for no charge, depending on your accommodation type. But if you don't like being limited to six minutes of water, just plan an early visit to Dōgo Onsen! Note that during holiday periods, the Sunrise Seto runs directly to Matsuyama after reversing direction at Takamatsu.
If you have a Japan Rail Pass, all travel on JR trains is covered except for room accomodations on the Sunrise Seto. If you are traveling a long distance to reach Matsuyama, you can choose to simply split up your journey, stopping at an intermediate destination en-route in order to sleep somewhere. For example, on a trip from Tokyo to Matsuyama you could leave Tokyo in the evening on the Shinkansen and make your way to Osaka or Himeji to spend the night. The next morning you can continue to Okayama to connect to the Shiokaze train.
-
By bus
Highway buses connect Matsuyama with the rest of Shikoku, as well as with other major cities in Japan. The following buses are operated by JR Shikoku Bus [url=http://www.jr-shikoku.co.jp/bus]](Japanese website) and affiliated JR bus companies.
Within Shikoku, the Botchan Express bus runs multiple times per day from [[Takamatsu[/url]] (2 3/4 hours, ¥3900), while the Nangoku Express offers six daily round-trips from [wiki=88908d7435ae656bdf61f4b5482ad325]Kochi[/wiki] (2 3/4 hours, ¥3500) and the Yoshinogawa Express offers service to/from [wiki=c5ed8a1597a961b9611bf14e290acfe6]Tokushima[/wiki] (3 1/4 hours, ¥4300).
The interestingly-named Madonna Express bus service runs six daily round-trips between Matsuyama and [wiki=6a954cc6ab6730a93ce523fd7efb4cd4]Okayama[/wiki] (3 hours, ¥4300).
From [wiki=0d70a380fe641d8206c6d43c185b9c23]Osaka[/wiki] and [wiki=676c34d7107e519616752eeec31e7305]Kobe[/wiki], service is offered on the Matsuyama Express Osaka bus. Eight daily round-trip buses during the day from Osaka and Sannomiya Bus Terminal (5 3/4 hours from Osaka, ¥6700). One round-trip bus runs overnight, starting from Kyoto station (8 1/4 hours, ¥7000) and stopping at Osaka and Sannomiya along the way.
The Olive Matsuyama bus service operates overnight between [wiki=10b22625bf8918f4fd3ae2f185bd44c8]Nagoya[/wiki] and Matsuyama, via Tokushima and Takamatsu (10 1/4 hours, ¥10,000).
Overnight buses are offered from [wiki=62413a57c5e3dc51177995fa175d3286]Tokyo[/wiki] on the Dream Takamatsu-Matsuyama service (10 1/4 hours, ¥12,000; ¥14,300 for Premium Seats).
Iyo Tetsu Bus operates similar services in competition with those listed above, at similar prices. It should be noted, though, that Iyo Tetsu's overnight services make pickup and dropoff stops directly at Dogo Onsen (see below). Both Iyo and JR buses make stops at the Okaido arcade, from which Dogo Onsen is a short, convenient journey by tram.
Iyo Tetsu Bus also offers an overnight bus to Matsuyama from [wiki=f5d540492523ba1f8e1516239c6b60fb]Fukuoka[/wiki] and [wiki=dbeb5eaaa86547aeec8b7891993ddb5c]Kitakyushu[/wiki] (10 hours from Fukuoka, ¥8000).
Willer Express [http://willerexpress.com/en] operates buses from Matsuyama to Kobe, Osaka and Tokyo. Online bookings are available in English.
-
By ferry
Ferry services connect Matsuyama with various locations on [wiki=1de86fd1895b2d3b6f6c44846abace43]Honshu[/wiki] and [wiki=2b6dbcef587218cc0833879439473682]Kyushu[/wiki]. Ferries depart from Matsuyama Kankoko (松山観光港) [url=http://www.kankoko.com/contents/timetable.html].]To reach the terminal from JR Matsuyama Station, take the Iyotetsu Limousine Bus which leaves every hour (20 minutes, ¥450). The bus also runs from the Dogo Onsen tram station (40 minutes, ¥600). Alternatively, take the tram to Takahama station, which is a 15 minute walk or 5 minute bus ride from the ferry terminal.
*Ishizaki Ferry and Setonaikai Kisen [url=http://www.setonaikaikisen.co.jp/english/index.html[/url]]operate daily to and from [[Hiroshima[/url]], with some boats stopping in Kure (呉). The Superjet Hydrofoil service departs from Matsuyama every hour, on the hour, from 7 AM to 6 PM, then at 7:30 PM and 9 PM. The ride takes 70-80 minutes to reach Hiroshima and costs ¥6900 each way. Slower ferries depart on different schedules between 6:25 AM and 7:50 PM (10 per day), reaching Hiroshima in about 2 1/2 hours at a cost of only ¥3500 each way.
*[url=http://www.matsuyama-kokuraferry.co.jp/sp/index.html]Matsuyama Kokura Ferry Co.[/url] runs an overnight service to Kokura in [wiki=dbeb5eaaa86547aeec8b7891993ddb5c]Kitakyushu[/wiki], leaving at 9:55 PM and arriving at 5 AM the next day.
-
If you plan on staying for an extended period of time (or believe you will spend more than ¥2000 on transportation), you may want to buy an I~C Card at Shieki, which gives 10% discounts on all Iyotetsu transportation (including taxis).
Traveling on foot is an entirely viable way of getting around downtown at a comfortable pace.
-
By tram
Trams (streetcars) have a flat fare, ¥160 per trip (or ¥80 for children). A one-day pass costs ¥400.
You can also tour a few Botchan sites on the Botchan Ressha, which is a recreation of the old steam-powered trams (though the modern version runs on diesel).
-
By bus
Iyotetsu (伊予鉄) [http://www.iyotetsu.co.jp/bus/busmap/english] city buses connect all corners of Matsuyama (except for the island, Nakajima), from the ferry port in the west to Kume in the east, and from Hōjō in the north to Tobe in the south. The hub is the aforementioned Shieki. Timetables are not in English, but if you can pronounce the destination, the driver will help you get there. Fares start at ¥150. Enter buses in the rear and take a slip of paper. If you need to change a yen note, insert it into the machine at the front of the bus to receive change. When you are ready to disembark, go to the front, check the amount due on the above chart and drop the money into the slot.
Buses run once an hour from the Takahama Ferry Port to Dōgo Onsen Eki. There is also an East-West Loop bus which connects all vital areas and whose fare is ¥150.
-
By train
Also run by Iyotetsu [http://www.iyotetsu.co.jp], with a hub at Shieki. Trains run from Yokogawara to Iyo to Takahama every 15 minutes and are quite reliable.
-
By car
The Nissan Car Rental port at the intersection of Nishihoribata and Hanazoromachi, across from JAL Hotel. Car rental is not practical for city travel, but can be handy for onward destinations in Shikoku.
* Rentals available in the city center (089-931-4123) and at Matsuyama Airport (089-974-2341).
*
*
-
By bicycle
If you are so inclined, bicycles can be rented from EPIC (see [wiki=97ac82e49a093a828a934c7edf7eef95#Tourist information]above[/wiki]). They are usually not mountain or racing bikes, and come with 1-3 gears.
* Rickshaws (人力車, Jinrikisha) are "man-powered vehicles" popularized by the elite in the Edo period, and are only available for rent around Dōgo. Fares, including a guided tour by your carrier, start at ¥1500 for 15 minutes. There may be an English speaker available.
-
While having read Sōseki's novels or Shiki's haiku is by no means essential to enjoy most of these sites, it will probably represent the difference between whether you find them evocative pieces of history or just a pleasant collection of Meiji-era buildings.
* Born to a lower class branch of the Matsuyama samurai clan, these two brothers became military heroes of Japan. Yoshifuru, the eldest, is credited as the father of the Japanese cavalry, while Saneyuki excelled in naval tactics. Yoshifuru traveled to France to study cavalry techniques in 1887. After serving in the Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895) he established a cavalry division which debuted in the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905). After holding numerous posts of prestige, he was promoted to General in 1916 and finally retired to become a junior high school principal in Matsuyama. A childhood friend of Shiki, Saneyuki shared his friend's love of the written word, and the two studied literature at Tokyo University. However, at the behest of his brother, Saneyuki embarked on a military career. He was sent to America to study naval tactics, and had on-the-job training during the Spanish-American War (1898). After returning to Japan, he became the foremost strategist of the Russo-Japanese War, leading to a major victory on Tsushima.
* This French-style building was constructed in 1922 for the former lord of Matsuyama Castle, Hisamatsu Sadakoto (久松定謨). After having lived and studied in France, Hisamatsu became enamored with the romantic architectural style, and hired Kigo Shichirō (木子七郎) to build his villa. This Taishō Era estate was the venue of many parties for the elite in its heyday, and the Emperor himself made it a point to visit whenever he was in the area. Currently, it is used as the Museum of Art's annex. The first floor's gallery changes throughout the year and is free, while the collection on the second floor showcases ink paintings by Shiki, Sōseki, and other Ehime residents.
* Admirers of the aforementioned Botchan may enjoy watching the Gizmo Clock located beside Dōgo Onsen Station at the mouth of the shopping arcade when it chimes every hour and half hour. Botchan Karakuri Tokei was completed in 1994 to commemorate the 100th year of the last reconstruction of Dōgo Bathhouse, and the animatronics that emerge during the musical interlude depict special scenes from the novel.
* From mid-March through April, the typically peaceful Dōgo Park is overwhelmed by inebriated locals and hawking vendors who come to take part in the most ancient of activities, hanami, or viewing of sakura (cherry blossoms). An oval shaped patch of green in the overdeveloped Dōgo neighborhood, Dōgo Kōen is an important part of Matsuyama's identity because it harbors the ruins of Yuzuki Castle. Yuzuki-jō was the residence of the Kōno Clan (河野), who ruled Iyo Province (伊予, now Ehime) from the 13th to the late 16th century, when war lord Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉) sent an army to Shikoku to conquer and unify Japan. The excavation of the 30,000 square meter site took over 14 years, but the castle, gardens, and residences were all recovered. Within the recreated homes, mannequins silently act out the daily lives of the elite during that time, drinking tea and writing renga (poems composed by a group). There is also a library and a volunteer English-speaking guide can show visitors around with advance reservations.
* Sitting upon Dōgo Hill and accessible by car or climbing 135 stone steps, this important cultural asset is one of three great examples of Shinto Hachiman-zukuri (God of War) architecture in Japan. It was promised by the lord of Matsuyama Castle, Matsudaira Sadanaga (松平定長), if the gods awarded him victory in the 1667 Edo Castle Yabusame (horseback archery) competition. The outer walls are modeled after the Iwashimizu Hachiman Shrine in Kyoto, while the inner sanctum (the oldest part of the shrine) is designed in various Shinto styles of the 17th century. Memorials honoring the warlords who fought against the Kamakura battalion are guarded by stalwart dogs who watch over the four deities adorning the four corners of the vermilion structure. There are exhibitions of feudal era armor (including Matsudaira's helmet) and swords (Tachi Mei, a mid-Kamakura era piece crafted by the famous Kuniyuki Rai).
* Learn about the process of making Iyo's signature cloth and then create some of your own. Reservations necessary.
* This small teahouse was built in 1790 as a gift to Kobayashi Issa (小林一茶) by his friend Kurita Chodō (栗田樗堂), from one poet to another. The design was inspired by Matsuo Bashō's idyllic hut and the name comes from the sexagenary cycle of the year. Recently restored to its former beauty, when the fujidana wisteria are in bloom, Kōshinan Shiseki Teien is truly a sight to behold. It is free to tour, but reserving the rooms is also possible.
* Situated on the 130m tall Katsuyama Hill in the center of the city, this sprawling fortress is one of three multi-wing, flat hilltop castles remaining in Japan. It was constructed by the feudal lord Katō Yoshiaki (加藤嘉明) over the course of 25 years, completed in 1627. Four of its eight strategic gates are designated national cultural treasures, and with the wealth of historical artifacts within its majestic walls - swords and armor belonging to the three occupying families, calligraphy and official documents from the feudal era (English available) - Matsuyama-jō is well worth the hike. The castle is accessible by hiking a wooded trail, but the ropeway (¥500 roundtrip) can be boarded at the east entrance.
* Curiously styled as a European fortress wall and atop a hill high enough to parallel the castle, Matsuyama Sōgō Kōen provides a panoramic view of Matsuyama and features a playground for children.
* Ehimeken Bijutsukan is a surprisingly discreet 10,300 square meter facility located in Shiroyama Park (at the base of the castle and surrounded by a moat) and houses a permanent collection from Ehime natives such as Takubo Kyōji (mixed media sculptor) and Kangaku Oki (ink painter) as well as temporary exhibits from all over the globe. There is a rental gallery where Ehime residents can display their pieces, along with free workshops, a library, and a café.
* Located southwest of the castle on the hillside, Ninomaru Shiseki Teien is another excellent point for viewing the city. The ruins of the Matsuyama Clan estate are preserved and celebrated in a romantic mixture of contemporary fountain designs and ancient garden aesthetics. Viewable from the castle's donjon, mystical Takigi Nō (nocturnal plays by bonfire) performances take place here throughout the year, and families enjoy picnics in its quiet serenity. Many cultural events (tea ceremonies, doll exhibitions, drum performances, etc.) are hosted here.
* During the Russo-Japanese War, a number of Russian soldiers ended up in prison camps in Matsuyama. Not viewed as criminals but rather as warriors who loved another nation, these prisoners are said to have had a relatively easy life here. To this day, volunteers of the community respectfully tend to their tombs, which are in the center of a sacred circle of temples and shrines.
* The name means "The Cloud Over an Upward Slope", and refers to the title of a book written by Shiba Ryōtarō (司馬 遼太郎) depicting the struggles Japanese people encountered as they rebuilt their country after the Meiji Revolution and the conflict with Russia. This impressive building, designed by well-known architect Ando Tadao (安藤忠雄), tells the stories of the aforementioned Akiyama Brothers and Masaoka Shiki. The ¥400 admission may be a little steep for non-Japanese readers as there is absolutely no English inside, but the Meiji Karakuri Theatre (moving 'stick' figures) is quite entertaining.
* Located in the Dōgo area, the Shiki Kinen Hakubutsukan has a large collection of literature, artwork, and special exhibits about the life of Shiki.
* The main rooms of the house where Shiki spent the first 17 years of his life were replicated and set up in Shōjuji near the center of the city. The desk and artifacts from his childhood are displayed as he would have had them. The facility is complete with literary and artistic works discovered after his death, pictures, and even some monuments dedicated to other renowned haiku poets.
-
88 Temple Pilgrimage
Eight temples in Matsuyama are part of the [wiki=990fd04f6f7ad36f744dea53a9a78497]88 Temple Pilgrimage[/wiki]. Most are well out of the city center, though, and require a car or (appropriately enough) a hike.
* #46. Created in 708, this temple houses one of Gyoki's Yakushinyorai statue, the first of its kind and the guardian of knowledge and art.
* #47. Built in 701, this temple has the first Amida Nyorai deity statue.
* #48. Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師) struck the ground with his stick and created a pond here; his 11-headed Kannon also stands here.
* #49. Jōdo was built in the 700s by Emyo Shonin.
* #50. Another Yakushinyorai statue is worshipped here.
* #51. This is one of the most impressive of the 88 temples in the pilgrimage, housing a variety of statues, haiku stones, and treasures scattered about the grounds. Some of its more interesting aspects are the Deva Hall with its murals of gods, the belfry, and the giant stone statue of Kōbō Daishi - whose head, if you can touch it, will absolve you of making the entire pilgrimage. Founded in 728 and part of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism, Ishiteji embodies one of the most moving of Buddhist legends of greed, sorrow, repentance, and reincarnation. Smoke from the incense of pilgrims making their prayers fill the inner sanctum. Ishiteji celebrates the New Year like no other temple in Matsuyama.
* #52. An 11-headed Kannon and Shitenno god statues reside here.
* #53. Also built in the 8th century, the dō style of this temple was rebuilt in 1633.
-
Grab your towel and go bathing! Dōgo Onsen is the oldest and most famous onsen in Japan, with a history stretching back over 3,000 years. Quite a few legends surround these waters. One says that the springs of Dōgo were discovered when, during the age of the gods, a heron placed his injured leg into hot water streaming out of a rock and was miraculously healed. Another claims that when an ill god bathed in the hot spring, the god recovered and danced for joy. The heron motif is everywhere inside the building. Tama no ishi or Yudama, the round rock from which the healing waters sprang, is the source of the symbol for Dōgo, though it looks more like a chestnut to some.
According to legend, Prince Shotoku (574-622) used to partake of the waters, and in 1899, the annex Yushinden, was built so that the Imperial Family could enjoy Dōgo in privacy. The last time the Emperor visited Dōgo was in the 1970s, but the curious can peek into the rooms (15 minute tour without bathing: ¥250 adults, ¥120 children.) There is also an exhibition room that features artifacts from the various stages of Dōgo's history.
There are two types of baths in the honkan for both men and women.
:* The "Bath of the Gods" is a simple public style bath in a pseudo-Mediterranean setting. Towels and soap are not provided but can be cheaply rented at the front. Includes access to the Exhibition Room and Botchan's Rooms.
:* Bathers can use the lounge, wear a Dōgo yukata, and have tea with sembei (rice cracker) for 60 minutes. Includes access to the Exhibition Room and Botchan's Rooms.
:* The "Bath of the Spirits" 60 minute course includes use of Kami no Yu, lounge, a yukata, snacks, towel, the two aforementioned rooms and a 15 minute Yushinden tour.
:* This course is 80 minutes. The room is private, and the provided yukata has a heron design. Botchan dango (rice dumplings) are served.
* This vast playground (350,000 square meters) consists of five play zones with slides, roller coasters and even workshops for cooking and crafts. Great for families and couples.
* Many well-known haiku writers came from or have made pilgrimages to Matsuyama, giving it the title "Town of Haiku" (俳句の里). As you tour the city, you'll find dozens of stones engraved with timeless verses. Haiku no Ro features a number of these stones. Some of the haiku artists on display are Takahama Kyoshi (高浜 虚子), Ishida Hakyō (石田波郷) and Yanagihara Kyokudō (柳原 極堂).
* The best kept secret when it comes to communal bathing in Matsuyama is the old timey resort Hotel Okudōgo's onsen safari, and that's not surprising considering it's located beyond (奥's meaning in this context) Dōgo. There are 26 pools in all, half in Seseragi and the others in Kawasemi; men's and women's areas are switched almost every day. It's called "Jungle Onsen" because of the steamy atmosphere. No two pools have the same concoction (sulfur, alkaline, etc.) or style, which makes pool-hopping fun. There are waterfall massages, saunas, temperatures ranging from scalding to freezing, and outdoor pools overlooking the forests of the Okudogo Mountains and the Ishite River.
* Taught by volunteers. The koto and picks are provided, but reservations are required.
* Zazen, "seated meditation", is a form of Buddhist meditation used to empty the mind and simply exist in the moment. Try it out for some travel stress relief.
*A family-friendly minigolf course just outside of Matsuyama. Managed by a Canadian expat and his wife.
-
A stroll around Dōgo Onsen, particularly the Yunomachi shopping corridor, will turn up plenty of tourist-oriented souvenir shops. Look for Iyo Kasuri cloth, which was traditionally woven with thread-dyed indigo, but is now made in many vibrant hues and is used for clothing, toys and accessories. (Kasuri means "splashed pattern".) Another item of note is Tobe pottery, which boasts a history of over 220 years. Designated a National Traditional Craft, it's valued for its thickness and simplicity, and the sensual contrast of the indigo against pristine white ceramic ware. Shops in Yunomachi sell Tobeyaki, but Tobe the town is not far from Matsuyama if you'd prefer to go to the source.
The Gentangai Arcade, just east of Shieki, is the place to look for more contemporary and eclectic items.
* There are a few anime shops around the downtown area, but this is the landmark. The others aren't far away on foot - walk a little further into the Gentengai Arcade and Melon Books and Iashinbang will be on your left and up the stairs, or achieve moe at Merry Maid Cafe, located on the 5th floor of the appropriately named Waku Bldg.
* What canine wouldn't want to try some green tea doggie treats?
* Quality, locally produced bamboo products (and other Ehime crafts) on the second floor. Head east on Rt. 317 from Dōgo Hill.
* Situated above the Iyotetsu train station, this Takashimaya has a rare distinction among Japanese department stores: a Ferris Wheel on the roof.
* If Misora Hibari is your idol, get your enka fix here!
-
Matsuyama is a great place to indulge a sweet tooth. Botchan dango (坊ちゃん団子) headline every sweet shop in town. They're skewered rice dumplings covered in bean paste dyed with green tea, eggs, and azuki beans. This soft, sweet snack was popularized by Sōseki, who had such a weakness for them that he included the treats in Botchan. Another local favorite are the cute little tarts (タルト). Originally derived from [wiki=efc49e25abf75a05009de9c5edfbf828]Nagasaki[/wiki]'s Castella cake in the 1600s, the Matsuyama variety replaces jam with azuki bean paste, and rolls up the cake.
For a healthier sweet, mikan (みかん) (citrus fruits) come in a multitude of species, including iyokan (grapefruit-like) and dekopon (huge, orange and puckered). Mikan are mainly harvested in the fall and are very cheap, but they're so treasured that they are used as offerings to ancestral spirits.
* One of the only two restaurants privileged with having Dōgo Beer on the menu, Bakushukan is to the right of Dōgo Onsen Honkan and has a warm, semi-German theme.
* This restaurant is a fantastic place to experience Ehime cuisine, serving dishes such as taimeshi (fish) and goshiki soumen (五色そうめん), five-colored noodles dyed using natural ingredients: eggs, green tea, buckwheat flour, plums and shiso. Thin yet strong, these noodles make an excellent base for other regional fare.
* There are two locations, but this is the original. Ladky's serves up the best Indian food in town. Spice potency varies with the chef's mood, so choose wisely...or order the pudding to soothe the fire.
* Opened in 1971, this ramen strip is the place to find regional noodle fare at comfortable prices. Try Sapporo Enishiya, Tōkyō Kyouka or Kumamoto Tengaiten. You'll see Matsuyama-ites waiting in lines for something edible, so lunch is a test of patience richly rewarded.
* A romantic and sophisticated Japanese brasserie, and the other of the two restaurants with the honor of serving Dōgo Beer. It's next door to the brewery, in fact.
* This is a cozy joint for yakisoba and Kansai or Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki.
* One of the best kept secrets among night spots. UC has an open patio draped in the Union Jack, yet has the tastiest Mexican dishes in town. Try the quesadilla or enchilada, but don't bother with the nachos. They also serve a wide variety of highballs (¥525+), exotic beers (Sol, Pine, and Red Stripe), pasta and rice dishes (¥420+). Pictures of all dishes are available, and for ¥3000, a party of three can drink as much as they want and get a seven course meal.
*This gourmet burger/sandwich shop serves up delicious food in a gorgeous setting. Morning sets from 9-11 AM are the usual fare (toast, eggs, coffee, sandwiches) but hold out for the Baker's Sets served from 11 AM until 2 PM. They serve a refreshingly original variety of great burgers and sandwiches (avocado mozarella, veggie sub, cheese "katsu" burger, just to name a few), and if you upgrade to the set, you also get fries, a drink, a side salad, pasta salad, and dessert--all of which to enjoy while sitting in a tatami room and enjoying the view of the Japanese garden. Also have a few import beers available. Staff is very friendly towards foreigners, but shy with English. Currently just the drink menu is in English but they're working on getting the food menu translated. On the way out, you can also buy some hand-made rolls/breads, good for snacking on while you continue to shop.
*Ramen and more in this 2nd floor restaurant. Great atmosphere and friendly owners.
-
The drinking district is fairly well-concentrated; the streets around the Okaido Arcade are the place to begin a bar crawl.
* Local breweries are a rare find in Japan, so it's no surprise that locals take so much pride in Minakuchi Shuzō. At the end of your complimentary tour of the tiny facility, and after you've tasted each of their signature brands - the crisp Sōseki Stout, hardy Madonna Alt and mild Botchan Kölsch - you can try asking the manager what the secret is to the smooth, clean taste, but you won't get much of an answer. It could be the use of Dōgo's sacred waters or the meticulous hopps roasting technique. Beer is brewed in the spring and summer, while shōchū is made in the fall and winter.
* A cozy standing bar popular due to its cheap fare and the friendliest English-speaking football-loving Japanese staff on the block. Draft beer and shiranami shōchū (potato based alcohol) are ¥300, Smirnoff Ice, yakisoba and chijimi are ¥350 and edamame (green beans) are ¥200. Located south of Moral Monkey bicycle parking lot on the right-side corner.
*A small European-style cafe by Dogo Onsen, Gallé sells sweet Japanese breakfasts, thick cut honey toast, yogurt, and fruit, either a la carté or as breakfast sets for ¥550 to ¥800. Their coffee may seem a little pricey at first, starting at ¥450, but the care and quality they put into their brew makes it well worth the extra yen per cup.
* While you watch the game on one of the 3 large flat screens, you can order individual dishes and a drink or two, or one of their courses, which will run you ¥2800 to ¥4000. Heading south from Ichibanchō, this is down the one-way, side street on the right of Ōkaidō, and on the second floor of the building on your left after you cross Nibanchō street.
* Billiards, darts, and typical Japanese bar fare. It's located on the left rear of Mitsukoshi department store.
* Run by young married entrepreneurs, Roppongi is a chic but comfortable bar with music catered to guests. Table charge is ¥300, draft beer is ¥500 and cocktails begin at ¥650. New favorites include chicken liver pâté, beef stroganoff, and the owner's best, Chocobanana Milk which uses Godiva whiskey. Located just off Ichibanchō Street, between the Iyotetsu Travel Agency and the Iyotetsu Taxi Hub.
* And "late" really means late at this popular, seedy watering hole, where expats and natives have been known to drink and dance until daybreak. Nabe, who speaks Japanese British English, is a kind and friendly host who will be happy to spin your favorite song. However, be aware that of the 4 beers listed on tap, only Lowenbrau is ever available on draft. Football games are screened here, albeit often with cheesy pop music drowning out the audio.
* If you’re in the mood for assorted cow and pig parts, this Kansai-style horumon semi-standing bar will be right up your alley. Try the tongue for ¥800, a diaphragm for ¥850 or, their specialty, raw liver for ¥580 (warm it up yourself for an extra ¥20). Wash it all down with Mr. Ishii’s signature Johnny shōchū, a highball (¥500) or draft beer (¥380).
-
-
Budget
Almost on top of Dōgo Onsen, with free Internet. Check in is at 2PM, but you can leave your things there at any time.
*Run by the super friendly Tamanoi-san of The Sophia Club NPO. It has a number of different rooms both Western and Japanese style some of which are self-catering. All have private bathrooms. Tamanoi-san speaks good English and knows 'everyone' in town. Internet, bike use included.
* Run by an eccentric but affable couple who will, among other things, provide courses on spoon-bending and scan your aura on demand. Expensive for what you get. A bit of a hike up a hill from the main part of town. Small, family kitchen not great for cooking, but situated near many restaurants.
* Owned and Operated by a lovely American/Japanese couple who provide their guests with traditional Japanese accommodation in a clean, modern building. Atmospheric Cafe/Bar, huge kitchen, roof terrace, lounge and "self-guided" 88 temple pilgrimage tours are offered.
-
Mid-range
Located just behind the castle, this hotel offers an observatory, open-air sauna and onsen (10th floor) and two buffet style restaurants. It also has Internet access.
* Also in the heart of Matsuyama, this smaller hotel has a cheaper breakfast, Japanese and Western restaurants, and a fitness room.
-
Splurge
Top-end classic ryokan, with indoor and outdoor onsen, centered around an exquisite traditional Japanese garden.
-
Matsuyama is a safe city, even by [wiki=53a577bb3bc587b0c28ab808390f1c9b#Stay_safe]Japanese standards[/wiki]. Theft has never been an issue of note at Dōgo Onsen, but there are coin lockers (¥100) if you have valuables to store.
-
Located south of Matsuyama, Tobe Dobutsuen is the destination for viewing over 190 species of animals, particularly "Peace" the polar bear. Though more spacious than its previous grounds and the silhouette animal footprints leading to the entrance are endearing, the zoo may leave much to be desired for those not used to Japanese zoological standards.
* [wiki=b5f2f80ca9c72a6df4707dce5b1d8f77]Mount Ishizuchi[/wiki] - the highest peak in western Japan.
* [wiki=01be3829cfdd1debab1a5aacd42c1b1a]Uchiko[/wiki] - traditional merchant town with Kabuki theatre and wax factory museum.
* [wiki=12ab43d379f7da6b46cacf20cd29d370]Uwajima[/wiki] - bull sumo, only three hours south on the JR Yosan Line
* Other cities within reach on the Yosan Line include mountainous [wiki=2f6d01ec1e8751b155ba73e32e6b82bb]Ikata[/wiki] and industrious [wiki=e77e5ec03142a5853ab24df31210a187]Niihama[/wiki] and [wiki=954b1917b619e9a4dfc6a3c68676a735]Imabari[/wiki], the latter of which is connected to the mainland for cars and bicyclists.
[wiki=e6bc882dea900f51ca5d10dc870977fd]de:Matsuyama[/wiki]
[wiki=89e3bdc9d7aabd8f98f390bd9916d751]fr:Matsuyama[/wiki]
[wiki=d30b57e1c6071fccf72385c11bd20d89]ja:松山市[/wiki]
[wiki=c15f73da734330a39c1ee7e2c360a7e6]wts:Category:Matsuyama[/wiki]
[[WikiPedia:Matsuyama, Ehime]]
[wiki=246a65b6227f8ea367da74c1455c2518]wtp:Hiroshima[/wiki]
Seleccionar Destino
Afghanistan
Aland Islands
Albania
Algeria
American Samoa
Andorra
Angola
Anguilla
Antarctica
Antigua and Barbuda
Argentina
Armenia
Aruba
Australia
Austria
Azerbaijan
Bahamas
Bahrain
Bangladesh
Barbados
Belarus
Belgium
Belize
Benin
Bermuda
Bhutan
Bolivia
Bonaire
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Botswana
Bouvet Island
Brazil
British Indian Ocean Territory
Brunei
Bulgaria
Burkina Faso
Burundi
Cambodia
Cameroon
Canada
Cape Verde
Cayman Islands
Central African Republic
Chad
Chile
China
Christmas Island
Cocos (Keeling) Islands
Colombia
Comoros
Congo
Congo, Democratic Republic (ex. Zaire)
Cook Islands
Costa Rica
Croatia
Cuba
Curacao
Cyprus
Czech Republic
Denmark
Djibouti
Dominica
Dominican Republic
East Timor
Ecuador
Egypt
El Salvador
Equatorial Guinea
Eritrea
Estonia
Ethiopia
Falkland Islands (Malvinas)
Faroe Islands
Fiji
Finland
France
France, Metropolitan
French Guiana
French Polynesia
French Southern Territories
Gabon
Gambia
Georgia
Germany
Ghana
Gibraltar
Greece
Greenland
Grenada
Guadeloupe
Guam
Guatemala
Guernsey
Guinea
Guinea-Bissau
Guyana
Haiti
Heard and Mc Donald Islands
Honduras
Hungary
Iceland
India
Indonesia
Iran
Iraq
Ireland
Isle Of Man
Israel
Italy
Ivory Coast
Jamaica
Japan
Jersey Island
Jordan
Kazakhstan
Kenya
Kiribati
Kosovo
Kuwait
Kyrgyzstan
Laos
Latvia
Lebanon
Lesotho
Liberia
Libya
Liechtenstein
Lithuania
Luxembourg
Macau
Macedonia
Madagascar
Malawi
Malaysia
Maldives
Mali
Malta
Marshall Islands
Martinique
Mauritania
Mauritius
Mayotte
Mexico
Micronesia
Moldova
Monaco
Mongolia
Montenegro
Montserrat
Morocco
Mozambique
Myanmar
Namibia
Nauru
Nepal
Netherlands
New Caledonia
New Zealand
Nicaragua
Niger
Nigeria
Niue
Norfolk Island
North Korea
Northern Mariana Islands
Norway
Oman
Other Countries
Pakistan
Palau
Palestinian Territory
Panama
Papua New Guinea
Paraguay
Peru
Philippines
Pitcairn
Poland
Portugal
Puerto Rico
Qatar
Reunion
Romania
Russia
Rwanda
Saint Barthelemy
Saint Helena
Saint Kitts and Nevis
Saint Lucia
Saint Martin
Saint Pierre and Miquelon
Saint Vincent and the Grenadines
Samoa
San Marino
Sao Tome and Principe
Saudi Arabia
Senegal
Serbia
Seychelles
Sierra Leone
Singapore
Sint Maarten
Slovakia
Slovenia
Solomon Islands
Somalia
South Africa
South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
South Korea
South Sudan
Spain
Sri Lanka
Sudan
Suriname
Svalbard and Jan Mayen Islands
Swaziland
Sweden
Switzerland
Syrian Arab Republic
Taiwan
Tajikistan
Tanzania
Thailand
Togo
Tokelau
Tonga
Trinidad and Tobago
Tunisia
Turkey
Turkmenistan
Turks and Caicos Islands
Tuvalu
Uganda
Ukraine
United Arab Emirates
United Kingdom
United States
United States Minor Outlying Islands
Uruguay
Uzbekistan
Vanuatu
Vatican City State (Holy See)
Venezuela
Vietnam
Virgin Islands, British
Virgin Islands, U.S.
Wallis and Futuna Islands
Western Sahara
Yemen
Yugoslavia
Zambia
Zimbabwe
Spanish