The city was established in the 17th century as a frontier trading post to the aboriginal Ainu people who originally inhabited much of Hokkaido. It prospered through trade and as a strategic outpost in the far flung northern reaches of the empire, in the century that followed. The modern city was established in 1900, and when Japan recaptured parts of [wiki=eedfc25c7412e7860273f001307332a1]Sakhalin[/wiki] Island after the Russo-Japanese war of 1905, it became the main transit point to the Karafuto prefecture established there with regular steam-liner operations to Otomari (today [wiki=9fe3cfeadb2b0f9e40affa232d16f239]Korsakov[/wiki]), a status that only increased when the Sōya railway was finally extended here in 1926. With the loss of Sakhalin in the aftermath of WWII the town's fortunes faded, and it reverted to being little more than a military post during the Cold War with American troops stationed here for much of the period. While the population is still dwindling, the end of the Cold War might change Wakkanai's fortunes once more: a regular ferry route to Sakhalin was reopened in the 1990s, and trade and ties with Russia are slowly but steadily increasing.
The average summer temperature is around 20°C (68°F), but it can get cold at night, so you may need to bring more than a summer jacket. It's temperate enough that you don't see many air-conditioning units around town, and the ones that are there are rarely put into use. In the depth of winter the thermometer frequently drops below zero, but the −20 °C (-4°F) you see inland or across the Okhotsk bay in Russia are extreme occurrences here, as the air is heated by sea currents. The very strong winds can make it feel like Siberian winters, though.
Wakkanai's tiny airport ( [url=http://www16.ocn.ne.jp/~wk.air/]),]10 km (6 mi) southeast of the city, fields regular flights to [[Sapporo[/url]] and [wiki=62413a57c5e3dc51177995fa175d3286]Tokyo[/wiki] (Haneda), with additional summer-only services to [wiki=ce24e3796ff1a93ef581f14b234a5bd3]Nagoya[/wiki] and [wiki=6c8823e2938c2923ef72537cd3964e1a]Kansai[/wiki]. All flights to the airport are operated by ANA - All Nippon Airways [http://www.ana.co.jp]. The airport is 20 minutes away from Wakkanai station by bus.
The JR Soya Honsen line connects Wakkanai to [wiki=15c875877e633ac91ab752833a319d69]Asahikawa[/wiki]. There are two stations within the city limits, Wakkanai itself (station code W80) as well as Minami-Wakkanai (W79) to the south.
Three daily Super Soya and Sarobetsu Limited Express trains make direct runs from [wiki=e9d6eb12ff84740501a444198e2675c2]Sapporo[/wiki] in 5-6 hours, at a hefty price (~¥10,000). There is no charge to use this train with the Japan Rail Pass.
Several buses operated by Soya Bus [http://www.soyabus.co.jp] run between Wakkanai and Sapporo daily: the journey takes around 6 hours and costs ¥6000, advance ticket purchase or reservation is (at least in theory) necessary, call +81 011 241-0241 (Sapporo) or +81 0162 22-3114 (Wakkanai) to make your reservation - alternatively, the office and departure point is located within Wakkanai JR Station on the corner next to the convinience store. One of the departures is a red-eye service, which might be a useful way to save some money if you're one of those who can sleep anywhere, the service arrives Sapporo at 5:30am at the JR Station where you can cool your heels (or warm them as the case may be) until your next departure. There is also a single daily round trip to Asahikawa. Keep in mind that while this is a cheap and convenient option in summer, during the winter suspension or delays are commonplace, and snowstorms frequently close the highway altogether.
The spanking new ferry terminal, directly east of the train station, hosts frequent (in summer) connections to the National Park islands of [wiki=2b70eb75ec60766e06e408b80af6ad13]Rebun[/wiki] and [wiki=a324866b4a90ab4016adb262347d4632]Rishiri[/wiki]; there are also a few shops and restaurants and a tourist information desk in the building. Right across from this terminal is the International Ferry terminal with biweekly departures for [wiki=9fe3cfeadb2b0f9e40affa232d16f239]Korsakov[/wiki], on [wiki=eedfc25c7412e7860273f001307332a1]Sakhalin[/wiki] Island. Journey time is 5.5 hours, and one way tickets start at ¥24,000. Note that a Russian visa is required to buy tickets bound for [wiki=5feb168ca8fb495dcc89b1208cdeb919]Russia[/wiki]. Also be aware that you MUST arrive at least two days prior to departure so that you may purchase a ticket. You will NOT be allowed to purchase a ticket the same day as ferry departure. To purchase a seat on the ferry to [wiki=5feb168ca8fb495dcc89b1208cdeb919]Russia[/wiki] follow these instructions:
1. Go to the domestic terminal, across the street from the international terminal.
2. Walk up to the front desk and ask for an English speaker. In summer 2010, a male supervisor was able to speak broken English.
3. Just tell the customer service rep that you'd like to purchase a ticket for the ferry to Russia; also give them your passport. They will have you fill out a paper which is the request for a ticket to Russia. This will be sent over to their offices on Yuzhno and you'll then be able to arrive two days later to pick up your ticket. (Note: This may be able to be done over phone or e-mail. At my time of visit, I was unable to get in contact with them via land-line.)
May be confusing at times but will be worth the hassle.
Alternatively, you can have a Japanese speaker call and ask for availability. You will then fill out and fax an application form to 011-233-2783 or 0162-23-6730. They will then fax back a confirmation form, which is in Japanese and English.
All ferries out of Wakkanai are operated by the Heartland Ferry Company [http://www.heartlandferry.jp/english/].
Wakkanai Kōen (稚内公園) is a large park spreading over the grassy hills west of the town, offering some commanding views over the area. The rope-way has been closed, but it is only a short walk to the top beginning at the Hokumon Shrine (北門神社). There are some nice walking trails to explore, and over 4,000 wild cherry trees grow in the park if you are here during Hanami (mid-May). To get an even better view you can ascend the 70 meter high Motoe Hiraku Centennial Memorial Tower (開基百年記念塔・北方記念館) 9AM-5PM (Jul-Sep until 9PM) for a 360° panoramic view of the cape, the expansive Sarobetsu Plain, the Rishiri Volcano and even sometimes to [wiki=eedfc25c7412e7860273f001307332a1]Sakhalin[/wiki] in Russia. Below is the two-story Northern Memorial Hall, which has a collection of documents relating to the local area and Sakhalin. In the weird, small Ice House (ゲストハウス氷雪) you can take a footbath in ice, if that tickles your fancy.
The park also has an eclectic collection of statues and monuments - none of them are particularly pretty, but they sometimes come with interesting stories: the Statue of Nine Women (九人の乙女の碑) is a memorial to the 9 women working at a Sakhalin telegraph station who committed suicide when they learned about the fall of Karafuto (Sakhalin) to Russian troops. Less dramatic is the Ice and Snow Gate (氷雪の門), a bronze statue of a woman facing the direction of Karafuto, longing for the home she was forced to leave behind. Without the nationalistic undertones is the Monument to Taro and Jiro (南極観測樺太犬記念碑), two Siberian huskies that an Antarctic expedition was forced to leave behind. When their trainer returned with another expedition the following year to bury his beloved dogs, much to everyone's surprise he was warmly greeted by the two dogs, who had survived a whole Antarctic winter. There are some more details of their story in the Youth Science Center, and their story is detailed in the 1983 film Nankyoku Monogatari.
Sōya Misaki (宗谷岬). about 30 km (19 mi) northeast of Wakkanai across the Soya Bay, is the northernmost point of Hokkaido, and aside from a small inaccessible and uninhabited island it is also the northernmost point of Japan. Naturally the Japanese have gone out of their way to commemorate this fact with the largely uninspiring Northernmost Point Monument (日本最北端の地の碑), a gray concrete triangle engraved with accomplishments. Right next to it is a Statue of Mamiya Rinzō (間宮林蔵の銅像), a Japanese explorer from the Edo period famous for his explorations and mapping of Karafuto (Sakhalin), and discovering it was an island. Nearby you also find an Old Naval Watchtower (旧海軍望楼) dating back to the conflicts over control of Sakhalin during the 1904 Russo-Japanese War.
In the hills behind the cape near the lighthouse, there are several additional monuments. The Tower of Prayer (大韓航空機撃墜事件の慰霊塔) is a memorial to those who lost their lives when Soviet fighters shot down Korean Air flight KL007 over Moneron Island in 1983. Fittingly right next to it, you find the Bell for World Peace (世界平和の鐘) a replica of a bell located in the garden opposite the United Nations Building in New York.
There is also the Wahoo Peace Memorial dedicated to the 1943 sinking of of the famous American submarine USS Wahoo off the coast by Japanese air and sea forces. The memorial commemorates the Wahoo's crew who was entirely lost and to the Japanese who lost their lives as a result of her attacks.
Built in the 1930s, this odd-looking breakwater is a 427-m (1,401 ft) arched hallway supported by 70 Roman style pillars. It rises over 13 meters up in the air to provide some protection for the strong winds in the area. It looks entirely out of place, but makes for some good photographs. In the summer months (Jul-Aug) it's sometimes converted to a lively market with BBQ and Karaoke.
* About 300 seals have decided that the concrete boulders of this small fishing port was a good home. Surprisingly, they seem to get along fine with the fishermen. The city administration has put up a small rudimentary observation hut with windows and a video feed, so the many guests now pouring in don't disturb the seals. Self service tea is provided free of charge, nice touch.
* Lake Onuma, a small lake east of the city, is a migratory stop for the Tundra Swan (Cygnus columbianus) on their way to or from Siberia, sometimes numbering tens of thousands. There is a Swan Festival (大沼白鳥まつり) held here in May. Other species that can be observed here include Herons and White-fronted Geese. The city has set up a log cabin with a large platform, an observation room and a small exhibition, and there are a free telescope and binoculars available to loan. Sometimes nature guides are present to answer questions, if you speak Japanese.
* Located right next to the Science Center. Fittingly for Japan's northernmost aquarium, it's centered around 2 large outdoor tanks with seals and penguins. The indoor area is rather smallish with the two main tanks containing species from the oceans south and north ecosystems respectively - The balloon fish is kawaii! Feeding shows twice per day in the outdoor pools.
* Inadvertently cute museum, it opened in 1974 - and it shows - since many of the exhibits are really retro. The science section set up to teach kids about the "latest" progress in science you can skip, it's out of date, and any kids won't understand the Japanese anyway. More interesting is the Arctic section with details of Japanese exploration of [wiki=eedfc25c7412e7860273f001307332a1]Sakhalin[/wiki] and the Arctic regions. A whole hall is dedicated to the famous (in Japan) Taro and Jiro (See the [wiki=1423f80f3375ece58058852fadb4e7d9]#Wakkanai Koen|Wakkanai park entry[/wiki]). Also of some interest is the Planetarium with shows 2-3 times per day.
The most expensive and exclusive of the options, boasts some large open-air baths overlooking the sea.
* Not so much an Onsen, more of a traditional indoor swimming pool under an impressive double domed roof. A 25 meter basin, waterslides, jacuzzi and a gym.
* The town's largest Onsen sits on the west coast and would have had some impressive unobstructed views of Rishiri Mountain, were it not for a huge blunder from the architect, though it is still visible from parts of the bath. A few indoor pools, and some outdoor ones which are unfortunately fenced in by hedges.
North Gate Shrine Festival (北門神社例大祭, Kitamon Jinja Reitaisai)
* Uma Soya Gourmet City (うま宗谷グルメ市, Uma Soya Gorume Shi)
Tricky to find, but a good hostel. Large common area with a big TV, games and books. Friendly managers, one of them speaks English surprisingly well, though not fluent by any means. The shower times can be a bit annoying, and it can get a bit cold at times. This hostel is closed in winter - check before you go, the alternative (below is a long and cold walk away - 40 mins without backpack - uphill).
* Big hostel, up on a hill behing Wakkanai Minami Station with great views over the city, nice big bathtub to splash in and has recently built some private western and Japanese style rooms (¥4200). Coin laundry. Really nice and homey feel but it's far from the ferry terminal. This place is open year round, although in winter it does resemble the hotel in The Shining, although less fancy, and without Jack Nicholson. If you do go in autumn or winter the dorm is likely to be closed, they will try to charge you ¥4200 for a private room, try negotiating the price down to ¥3300, the private rooms are new and very comfortable and come with a great shower and heater like a furnace. The major pitfall of this hostel is it`s location, although very much still in Wakkanai it`s a 40 minute walk to Wakkanai JR Station if you`re heading to the islands. There are locker facilities at the station though.
Fairly large business hotel, which has a nice spa on the top floor, both indoors and outdoors with views over Wakkanai, which are free for guests. Small rooms, but no smaller than usual in Japan, and a great breakfast buffet.
* Central no frills business style hotel, small basic rooms with even smaller windows, but the singles are OK for the price.
* Definitely not a pretty hotel, but a large section is recently refurbished so it's not so bad on the inside. The hotel's private spa is nice, and they have a large restaurant and bar as well.
There are also 3 hotels out of town, one each at Cape Soya, Cape Noshappu, Fushimi. The two latter options provides great views over Rishiri if you get the right rooms.
*
*
*
The most upscale hotel in town, and also the most expensive. But you pay for the very good facilities and common area's, not the rooms which are fairly standard, although some with nice views over the sea or Wakkanai koen. The main restaurant is very good, and so is the complementary breakfast.
* Has free wifi in the lobby, however non-smokers be warned: every room is a smoking room.