Amman is the capital and largest city of the Hashemite Kingdom of [wiki=6ea1e24d60afddf388b06f8243c45b70]Jordan[/wiki] with a population of more than four million.
Amman forms a great base for exploring not just Jordan, but the wider region as well and does, despite popular belief, offer much that is of interest to the traveller. The city is generally reasonably well-organized, enjoys great weather for much of the year and the people are very friendly.
Although Amman can be difficult to penetrate at first sight, the city holds many surprises for the visitor. Visit Amman's Roman Amphitheatre, its many art galleries or the newly opened Jordan Museum, while an afternoon away on a chic cafe terrace, take a course in the University of Jordan or stay in luxurious hotels and dine on the region's varied and delicious cuisine. Modern shopping malls are increasingly abundant in Jordan but open air souqs are what many travellers will remember most.
Amman is experiencing a massive (some would say: reckless) change from a quiet sleepy village to a bustling metropolis, some of whose neighbourhoods seem hell-bent on wanting to imitate Dubai. Amman's roads have a reputation of being very steep and narrow in some of parts of the city but the city has state of the art highways and paved avenues. The steep terrain and heavy traffic remains challenging for pedestrians and for the rare cyclist. New resorts and hotels dot the city and there are many things for the traveller to see and do in and around Amman.
Most travellers to Amman (and to Jordan) will arrive via Queen Alia International Airport, the two old terminals have now been replaced with a spacious, state of the art Norman Foster designed terminal (March 2013). Very occasionally, regional or charter flights use Marka Airport, centrally located in east Amman a few kilometres beyond the railway station.
For most western visitors, entry visas to Jordan can be purchased at the airport, if not already obtained from a Jordanian consulate overseas. The price of a visa is JOD40 (€42/USD56), payable in Jordanian dinars only; at the immigration line you will pay for the visa at the first counter, and then pass through to the second counter to receive the stamp. Money exchange is available before passport control and a single ATM (note the USD7 exchange commission!!!), more ATMs are available after customs. Only take out enough from that ATM to get through customs (or convert currency). For US cards, the ATM will automatically convert your money to US dollars and tacks a 5% fee onto its withdrawal fee (it doesn't ask you if you want to convert, it just does it). On a withdrawal of JOD250, the ATM fees cost this user USD17 more than using an Arab Bank ATM.
From Queen Alia to Amman city proper, the two best options are to either take a taxi or an Airport Express bus. Taxi transportation from the airport to Amman should cost around JOD20 (€21/USD28). Airport taxi fares are fixed and you should get a piece of paper from the taxi stand controller which sets the price of the trip.
Note that the fare is only fixed from airport to city, taxi driver might try to secure a ride from you from the city back to the airport, often with an inflated price.
The Airport Express bus runs 06:00-18:00 every 30 minutes (both ways), from 18:00 to 23:59 every 60 minutes (both ways) and costs JOD3.25 as of Oct 2014 (buy tickets from official kiosk). It leaves from a marked bus stop right outside the Terminal building. The trip from the airport to Tabarbour bus station in Amman, with a stop at the 7th Circle, usually takes from 45 minutes to an hour. It is then possible to catch a taxi from the bus station to your hotel but beware of taxis drivers trying to rip off the newly arrived traveller and insist on using the meter.
Fair taxi fares for the trip between 7th circle and 1st circle (straight route west-east along Zahran road) should be JOD2, but beware, drivers may try to take a detour northwards to the 'city centre'.
As of August 2014, the bus service is available during the whole day and night with a bus leaving the Tabarbour station in direction of the airport every one hour, but best check at the ticket office upon arrival to Amman airport. If going from Tabarbour back to the airport, the taxi drivers there will most definitely try to convince you that there is no night bus to the airport, that the last night bus to the airport just left, that the bus to the airport goes just after your flight, that the buses don't exist in Jordan etc. Once the clearly marked yellow bus arrives, they might even try to make the bus driver convince you he's not going to the airport anymore. Ignore them, although this might be the most challenging thing to do during your visit.
The airport bus stop at the 7th circle, less than 100m south of the circle. The small yellow "airport express" labelled bus is easily recognized and the driver will also stop on other places if you wave him. From there take a taxi to the place you're going and insist on using the meter. You should rarely pay more than JOD2-4.
To reach the 7th circle from downtown take bus 41 or any headed to Wadi As-Seir and ask to be dropped of at Dawaar As-Saabe'a (7th circle).
There are, of course, rent-a-car stations in Amman and at Queen Alia International Airport as well.
Amman bus services have a [url=http://autobus2.whatsupglobe.net/index.php/home]website with a somewhat usable English interface[/url].
Tabarbour bus station GPS coordinate: N31°59'41.28", E 35°55'10.92". Right next to the big highway interchange.
Abdali bus station GPS: N31°57'36.37" E35°55'1.82"
JETT bus station ([url=https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/3256803180]OpenStreetMap[/url]) is located near to the King Abdullah I Mosque. It is possible to walk from there, for example, to the Roman Theatre, within about 40 minutes (all downhill). Buses leave either in front of the ticket office, or from the big parking lot in the side street.
The general Abdali bus station is now closed.
There is one daily JETT bus from JETT's offices in Abdali to Petra, please check the JETT website for more information.
The new bus station is called Tabarbour Bus Station and is in the Northern fringes of Amman. Most of the buses to the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge and the various cities ('Ajloun, Jerash, Irbid) in Northern Jordan leave from here. To get there from downtown, take Servees (A sedan car that works like a bus) #6 from Raghadan Tourist Service Station (Raghadan Al Seyaha) which is located right next to the Colosseum. The Tabarbour Bus Station is the last stop on the Servees' route.
There are numerous buses pulling into the city of Amman, most of which are operated by JETT (Jordan Express Tourist Transport). The JETT bus to/from the Israel border bridge costs JOD7.5 and takes about 1 hour. However JETT maintains offices in Abdali station and many routes are served from there, including the Amman-Petra daily bus, cost JOD9.5 one way(December 2012) and departing at 06:30. Return bus from Petra departs at 16:00. Amman-King Hussein Border Pass to Israel is served also by a [url=http://www.jett.com.jo/SubPage.aspx?PageId=230]daily bus[/url] (September 2012).
Local public minibuses are available from Tabarbour bus station to the city of Jerash (until afternoon daily, not back on Fridays!). Buses leave when they are full. The price is exactly JOD1.000 one way (December 2014). The bus stops 50m from the south entrance of the ancient Acropolis and departs again when it is full exactly from the opposite direction.
There are two operators (one of them called Challenge) each providing two daily services from Damascus (Sumariya-Terminal) into Amman for SYP500 (SYP50 student discount). Times tend to change a bit, but they leave around 07:30, 08:30, 14:30 and 15:30. The tour takes typically about 4 to 5 hours, but can be longer depending on border formalities. The Challenge buses still arrive in Abdali. These busses don't run at the moment due to the war (December 2014).
From the bus station, you can take a taxi to the city centre. As a guide, it should not cost more than 2 JD on the meter from the bus station to most places in town, so either go by the meter, or pay a maximum of 2 JD. When using yellow taxies insist that the driver uses the meter which starts at (0,25JD, 0,35JD in the evening) and it is the most affordable way for taxi travel inside the city. Note that taxi drivers are obliged to use the meter and will loose their license of they don't. So insist on using it! The word for meter is the same in English as it is in Arabic.
Be wary of the private cars posing as taxis around the bus stands. They would offer their services asking you to pay as much as you want but later on insist on pocketing more money from you. In case you get one, insist paying the standard price which should not be more than JOD2. Anything more than JOD2 is a rip-off.
NOTE: There are 2 Raghadan stations in Amman, the one near the Roman Theatre (which is relevant to most tourists) is Raghadan Al Seyaha, make sure you tell the taxi driver this otherwise you will wind up at the wrong Raghadan station like I did and will have to catch another serviis back!
Train operator in Jordan: HJR (Hedjaz Jordan Railway) [url=http://www.jhr.gov.jo]]check seat61 [http://www.seat61.com/Jordan.htm[/url] for details. Since about 2005, scheduled services within Jordan and to Damascus have, sadly, been suspended. They are unlikely to resume. Train excursions run occasionally, as do local services to Zarqa. Neither operate more often than once per week, if at all. Amman's tiny, charming railway station (Mahatta) with its museum is worth a look even if you do not (or cannot) take a train.
A taxi to/from the Palestinian/Israeli border crossing bridge called King Hussain/Allenby can cost 25 JD and takes one hour. Negotiate the price with the driver and its likely possible to pay 20JD (December 2012).
You may also take the service taxi (white one), this is 6JD per person. The taxi leaves when it's full and will drop you off anywhere you want to go in Amman.
There are several car rental companies located in Jordan. Some will even give you a driver for free if you book a car rental with them.
Stations are available at Queen Alia International Airport, downtown Amman and in Aqaba. In case of any problems with your car, it's advisable to choose a bigger company with several branches (like in Amman and Aqaba). Then you have a better chance to receive faster road assistance or a replacement vehicle.
rental company branches within Amman city
*Avis - next to Intercontinental, Zahran street, between 2nd and 3rd circle
*Europcar - at Kempinski Hotel, Shmeisani
*Payless car rental - slightly better price, branch at Holiday Inn and Le Meridien Hotel
If you decide to take a rental car, make also sure you have an extra liability insurance for your car. This is a very important point, because the standard liability insurance (LI) covers car damage to approx. $7,000 and personal injury up to $17,000. Don't forget to add the extra liablity insurance during the booking process. It usually covers liablity claims up to $ 1 Mio. Otherwise you may have to pay the full amount of damage or personal injury at yourself. And this could ruin your life.
If you're driving much in the city, it's important to note that many of the streets do not have lane markings, and "rules of the road" seem to be based more on convention than actual laws. Stay slow and move to the right to let faster cars through. That said, drivers don't seem to be all that aggressive. Some tips:
*Even though you'll hear a lot of car horns these seem to be part of the normal etiquette, instead of signifying road rage as they would in Europe. A good example is that the traffic lights often cannot be seen by the first few cars waiting at them, so drivers further back in the queue will use their car horns to let the front cars know when the lights have turned green.
*Stop signs don't seem to mean that you need to stop regardless, locals treat them as you would a "yield" sign in the US. Although probably don't copy them if a traffic cop is nearby.
*Local cars are a little old and badly-maintained. Don't rely on someone's brake lights to be functioning, just keep alert and you should be fine.
*Pedestrians don't really look around and locals in particular seem to cross roads fairly recklessly. Not just adults, kids too, so watch out.
*Signage is variable. On the one hand, almost all signage on major roads is printed in both arabic script and roman script. However, one thing that people who can't read arabic script seem to have trouble with is the differing transcriptions. Arabic is mostly a spoken language (many more arabs are functionally illiterate than westerners are, so exact spellings matter a lot less) with many local variants. So the same arabic word may have many possible roman translations (Eg. Muhammad, Mohamed, Mohamet, Mahamet, etc. etc.). This can mean that your map might say "Karak" but your guide says "Al-Karak" and the road signs say "Al-Kerak". If in doubt, saying the words out loud might help.
Yellow and grey taxis are readily available and can be easily found anywhere in Amman. Just hail them in the street as Jordanians do. Taxis for Amman will have a green logo on the driver and passenger doors. The grey ones have an advertisement on top of the car. Resist hailing cabs with another color logo; these cabs are based in other cities and it is illegal for them to pick up fares in Amman.
White taxis (servees) are shared, and they have a specific route that they move along back and forth like buses, which means they don't necessarily drop you off at your exact destination, and the driver can pick up other fares along the way.
Yellow taxis in Amman are required by law to use meters and most drivers will reset the meter as soon as a fare is picked up. Meter rate is 0.25JD start, then 0.4JD/km, 1 hour waiting is 5JD (2014 Oct, according to Numbeo|http://www.numbeo.com/cost-of-living/city_result.jsp?country=Jordan&city=Amman)
Most trips within Amman should be under JD2 or JD3, at most a ride from one end of town to the other should not cost more than JD5. Taxis are required to use meters all the time (as of 2010) but with a base rate of JD 0.3 instead of JD 0.25 and 40% higher rate from 22:00 till 07:00. Beware of drivers offering to give you a short ride "for free" as a "Welcome to Jordan", especially if you're walking between the Citadel and the Roman Theatre; they will then offer to wait for you to take you to your next stop, and will use the "free" ride as an excuse not to start the meter. They will then charge you exorbitantly when you arrive at your next stop.
Drivers are not normally tipped, instead the fare is simply rounded up to the nearest 5 or 10 piasters. It should be noted that many drivers do not carry much change, so exact change should be given when possible.
If a driver is pretending he has no change, it is likely that he just wants to keep it, so that you'll have to pay more. If you mind this, ask the driver to find a nearby shop and get change or get the change yourself from a shop or (if you don't mind being rude) look into their money box to find the change yourself.
The going, negotiated rate for a taxi from Amman to the airport is JD20 or more, although some drivers can be talked down to JD15 or even JD 10 (which would be close to the metered rate). All taxis are allowed to take passengers to the airport; only special Airport Taxis may take passengers from the airport into town.
If you are visiting the Citadel, call it al-Qala'a. It's best to be dropped off at the Citadel and walk down the hill to the Roman theatre.
Service (white) taxies are leaving when they are full from Tabarbour bus station to King Hussein Bridge boarder crossing with Israel. The price per person is 6JD(December 2012). The proper line of the taxies is in Arabic but its easy to spot them by the King Hussein Bridge logo in their side doors.
A yellow metered taxi ride from city centre (Roman Amphitheatre) to West Amman (Royal Auto-mobile Museum-City Mall) will cost you apx 3.5JD.
Big, municipal buses serve many parts of Amman. They are used by low-income workers, working-class youth and foreign workers, but are perfectly safe. As of August 2014, the fare was JOD 0.35. Pay the exact fare (or overpay); bus drivers have no change! You can also load a bus fare cash card with a few Jordanian dinar and swipe the card past a reader as you enter the bus, but places to buy and recharge the card are rare. Most buses are numbered; some display their destination in Arabic only. Bus no. 26 conveniently travels between the old town (Balad) and the 7th Circle along Zahran Street. No. 27 goes from the old town towards the posh Abdoun neighbourhood. No. 43 passes near Shmeisani (as does no. 46) and continues along Mecca Street towards Mecca Mall. Many bus stops are marked by bus shelters, but buses also drop passengers at unmarked spots wherever it is safe to stop. Private minibuses shadow the municipal buses. They do not display route numbers, but a conductor usually shouts out their destination. Both cases, bus rivers rarely know the names of station and tourist attractions in English.
You can visit the fascinating Roman Theatre and Nymphaeum, that reflect the historic legacy of the city, and the enchanting Citadel which has stood since the ancient times of the Ammonites. Or enjoy a leisurely stroll through the King Hussein Park and visit the Automobile Museum, which contains the late King Hussein's car collection, or the Children's Museum.
Jabal Amman 1st Circle Walking Trail is also interesting, with its coffeshops and grand traditional villas. A leaflet with a route description is available from the [url=http://www.wildjordancafe-jo.com]Wild Jordan Café[/url].
If it's shopping you're after, then the pedestrian Wakalat shopping district offers a wide selection of international brand names to choose from.
For a more exotic and traditional experience you can visit the old city centre, also known as the Balad, and take in the traditional sights and smells of the spice market and shop for authentic souvenirs.
Amman isn't exactly a pedestrian-friendly city. In fact it's almost exactly the opposite of that. It's hilly, there are no pavements (if there are the kerbs are like a foot high, so no wheelchairs), there are no pedestrian crossings (if there are they tend to be ignored), and the streets are labyrinthine. Yet what better way to get a genuine feel for life here. Use a decent map (as of 21/4/15 Google Maps was rubbish, OpenStreetMap was almost perfect) or chat to the locals, who will endlessly and cheerfully offer you help to get to where you want to go. Just be prepared for bustle, watch for traffic, and be prepared to not reach your destination on time. As long as you take things easy you should have a wonderful experience of life in an Arab city. Also, if you're not a Muslim, marvel at how easy it suddenly becomes to get around the city when the muezzin call to prayer goes out. For 15 minutes at least, until the chaos starts again...
Abdali Boulevard [url=https://www.facebook.com/TheBoulevardJo],]is the the new downtown of Amman, it's a picturesque boulevard with mixed use buildings, for shopping, restaurants and entertainment. It is part of [[Al_Abdali[/url]] project.
* The Balad The grungy, busy downtown area is the old heart of the city which is enjoying something of a resurgence and is a must-visit for every traveller. Take a walk through the narrow alleyways and corners and negotiate (haggle) the price with friendly vendors. A maze of streets with everything from a fruit market to spices, souvenirs, clothes, hardware. Drink a cool glass of Sugar Cane juice, watch the talented young men make artistic sand designs inside the glass bottles, go and smoke a shisha (hubbly bubbly) in any of the numerous street cafes. Enjoy some tasty falafel in the famous Hashem cafe, enjoy a mansaf dish at Jerusalem restaurant or a nice slice of tasty Kanafe from Habibeh sweets. Busy crowded streets with the real taste of Jordan. Visit the Husseini Mosque, Darwish Mosque, Roman Theatre, Citadel, spice markets, or if adventurous have a wander around the Friday Bird and animal market and the second hand market on a Friday morning. Walk to Rainbow street and enjoy a different side of Amman. Visit the Duke of Mukhybeh's residence on the main street. Lot's of small cafes and roof terraces to enjoy the atmosphere. Visit the new Museum or catch a music recital or performance at the Hussain Culture Centre.
* Abdali Market - a large outdoor market that is open on Thursday night until Friday afternoon. It draws thousands of visitors each week, sells second-hand clothing and shoes with real interesting bargains to be found if you know how to look and how to haggle, in addition to vegetables and fruits.
* Malls - City Mall [url=http://www.citymall.jo/]]is currently Jordan's biggest shopping mall. All the usual international brands are present. Taj Mall in Abdoun is the new mall in town and is probably the most upmarket one while Mecca Mall,another big mall on Mecca Street, has more of a common feel to it. Baraka Mall in Sweifiyeh is small but has a good multiplex cinema and the ABC department store for those seeking indulgence and the odd 500$ to spare - all designer names. Majdi Mall is more of a neighbourhood mall - located near University of Jordan towards Sweileh.
* Wakalat Street A newly pedestrianised street in Sweifieh with big western stores, mostly clothes such as Zara and Gap. A traffic free street with open areas for sitting and walking and some restaurants and cafes for people watching.
* Shari' Al-Rainbow - Rainbow Street - A cobblestone street that winds its way down from First Circle. Has something of a European feel to it and is populated with small antique stores, clothing, restaurants, cafes, bars, sheesha tea shops and the well-known Falafel al-Quds, reputedly the "best" Falafel in the Middle East. Further down the street you will find a small park that overlooks the city. Further still on a side street, during the warmer months, is a side-walk flea market (Jara Marker). At the end of this street and down some stairs you will find Wild Jordan. The Royal Film Commission is also located on this street and it has an extensive film collection that is open to the public.
Living in Amman, the main places people spend time during the evenings are hookah shops.
* Coffee shop with traditional hookah, a wide selection of coffee and beverages. Offers Backgammon boards but no card games.
The best place to stay in Amman. Nice welcoming people, clean and safe. Great location in Downtown and away from the noisy streets. 24 hours reception, free high speed internet, washing service and breakfast is included except for dorms. outside food and drinks are allowed. They offer all kind of transportation services around Jordan and airport pick ups for cheap competitive prices.
* Clean and well-run. Good staff, knowledgeable and helpful. Price includes breakfast. Free wifi and internet. Free tea.
* Seems to be more catered to males and locals
* It has 40 rooms en-suite all with AC one side facing the roman theater and the other side facing the Amman Citadel.Hotel has free Wi-Fi,free parking,roof terrace,health center ,Gym,offer massage and Turkish Bath.and of course a nightly show of local dance the Dabke at the restaurant rustic decor and vibe a pleasant place to dine or meet friends over a coffee.
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Great and helpful staff, really good prices, simple but clean and comfortable rooms. Single-sex dorms (foreigners only) with 3 beds and in-room bathroom. Location super convenient to get anywhere (walk to the cafes & restaurants at Rainbow/Mango street or catch cheap service/taxi). Feels safe walking home at 10 or 11 pm.”
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* An option for low budget travelers. In the winter it can get very chilly, make sure that you ask for more blankets and they will provide you if they have.
* Good backpacker option, has common area with satelite TV & movies, organises tours & very friendly English speaking staff. From 4 JD for a dorm.
* Shared trips at reasonable rates to all tourist sites. Dorm rooms male & female - 2, 3 & 4 bedded rooms some with ensuite bathroom and air conditioning and satellite tv. Friendly English-speaking staff. Cheap light snacks and airport pick ups.
* King Faisal St, Downtown - 30 JD (with shower & satellite TV), 18 JD (shared facilities) for a double with breakfast included.
* One star hotel with good location near Abdali station. Safe area, near Capitol Police Centre. TV, free internet, free Wi-Fi and air cond or fan in the room; rooms are very basic, those in the back are colder.
* Super friendly and helpful, clean and safe.
Standard hotel with reasonable facilities. Wifi in reception (JOD3/hour). Indoor swimming pool, restaurant (but no bar). You can easily take a taxi down the road to the Regency Palace if you want a bar. Taxi cost is less than JD 1. Hot water can be a problem.
* Good location, nice big rooms, including middle eastern breakfast.
* Located in the progressive district of Shmeisani, next to the Royal Cultural Centre and the Amman Stock Market. Friendly hotel in an attractive setting.
* Nice suites hotel in a prestigous area opposite to the Four Seasons and Sheraton, comfortable for short and long stays, mainly one and two bedroom suites, some studios
* Friendly hotel in nice and very quiet neighbourhood
* Two-star hotel offering rooms with en-suite bathrooms, satellite TV, air-con, and central heating.
* Very good hotel if you can put up with the ever present smell of cigarette smoke (even in the non smoking rooms). Wireless internet works well.
* A wonderful luxury hotel.
* A favourite of the expat set for its laid back ambiance, terrace views and quality restaurants. Located at 3rd Circle.
* Another hotel popular with foreign professionals.
* A recent addition to the city: all the luxury of a 5 star with a number of interesting modern art features in the designer building.
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*Popular 4 star hotel. Some areas need updating, but rooms are comfortable. There is a very good breakfast buffet. Internet access is available in the rooms.
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* Another five-star
Women are advised to wear fairly conservative clothing if visiting religious sites.
There is no obligation to wear an Islamic headscarf but many local females choose to cover their heads, particularly in East Amman. In more affluent areas, particularly in West Amman, most women tend to dress more liberally. Both male and female travellers are generally advised to dress modestly when sightseeing. Outfits such as long skirts, pants and shirts with sleeves past the elbows will attract less unwanted attention for female travellers. Shorts are not advisable for men away from the poolside. Sandals are fine for everyone. When visiting religious sites, women are required to cover their heads.
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