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Dali is one of the most popular spots for independent China travellers and hugely popular with those studying and working in southern China. About 50 min by plane or 4-5 hrs by bus from Kunming (Yunnan's capital), Dali is considered by some the perfect place to relax in southern China.
Dali is the seat of Dali Prefecture and includes Dali New City (下关, Xiàguān) and Dali Old Town (古城, Gǔchéng). The Old Town has a population of only 40,000 but the 10,000+ km² (3500+ mi²) prefecture as a whole holds 3 million. When discussing or travelling to "Dali", it's important to be clear which you are talking about. Xiaguan is usually where transportation to "Dali" arrives but is an standard industrial Chinese city. Tourists are usually trying to get to the Old Town, which is famed for its traditional architecture, beautiful scenery (the dramatic Cangshan range, the expansive Erhai Lake, and small handworked fields of pleasantly varied produce), minority cultures (mostly Bai but also Yi and Hui), and nightlife. There is also much to see and do in the surrounding countryside.
The climate is temperate with moderate summers and mild winters, though it can get rather windy in autumn and winter and the tropical latitude means some will need to bring extra sunblock.
Despite Dali's fame as a backpacker heaven, foreigners are now hugely outnumbered by Chinese tourists, as the town has developed a reputation as the country's go-to for one-night stands. Dali has recently been overshadowed by nearby Lijiang and many foreign tourists either bypass it or give it 1-2 days stay. Dali deserves more.
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History
Dali has a long and rather glorious history. In 738, the Nanzhao Kingdom was established with Dali as its capital and covered a large area of Yunnan and northern Burma and parts of Sichuan and Guizhou. The original capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom was located in [wiki=9be87db40083bf8024ec249d001cf62b]Weishan[/wiki] (within Dali Prefecture) and later moved to sites around Erhai Lake. The territory conquered was quite substantial and held over a long period. The kingdom survived almost 200 years and had 13 kings before collapsing. After several decades of chaos the Kingdom of Dali emerged in 937.
The Kingdom of Dali established by Duan Siping in 937 was controlled by the Duan clan and survived until conquered by the Mongols in the 12th century. The Kingdom retained a close alliance with the Tang Dynasty, and was one of the major transit points for the introduction of Buddhism throughout the rest of China. By 1000, Dali was one of the 13 largest cities in the world.
1856-1872 Dali was the headquarters of the Panthay Rebellion led by Du Wenxiu. That rebellion commenced as an uprising against local oppressive rulers by the Hui muslim minority and ended as open rebellion against the Qing Dynasty. The Palace of Du Wenxiu is on Fuxing Road and serves as the local museum (the museum exhibition on the rebellion paints it as a patriot workers revolt which it was not). The rebellion was brutally crushed by the Qing and hundreds of thousands of Yunnan muslims were killed in revenge.
Many local people in Dali have the surname Duan to this day (rare in other parts of China). These historical events are immortalised in the Martial Arts literature of Hong Kong author Jin Yong (read by every Chinese school kid), giving Dali a fame nationwide. Both the Nanzhao Kingdom and the Kingdom of Dali had a military alliance with the Tang Dynasty against the aggressive Turfan (Tibetan) Empire which made regular and aggressive incursions into their respective territories.
The rulers of the original Nanzhao Kingdom were probably precursors to the modern Yi peoples, while the Kingdom of Dali rulers were precursors to the modern Bai minority.
A huge memorial stele to the Pacification of Kingdom of Dali was built during the Ming Dynasty and remains standing at the end of Sanyue Street past the city's West Gate. Entrance is free. The Mongols destroyed the old capital and palace of the Kingdom of Dali, located just to the south of the Three Pagodas. Almost all records of both the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms were burnt or destroyed, leaving much unknown about these periods. In addition, the Mongols brutally displaced many of the inhabitants of the prefecture, with the result that Bai minority people were forced as far east as Hunan Province. Many ethnic Han also moved into the Kunming area during this period.
The old Dali City was rebuilt in the early 1400s by the Ming Dynasty. What you see in Dali Old Town today is the rebuilt Ming town. Since then, the fortunes of Dali have declined and its importance as a cultural and economic centre in the Yunnan area have been overtaken by Kunming, the provincial capital.
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By bus
Buses from [wiki=08b9a179ae67e6d81b865889bc2e9417]Kunming[/wiki] West Bus Station take about 4-5 hours and costs ¥138 for an ordinary bus and around ¥180 for an express luxury bus, and will bring you to Xiaguan (下关, Dali New City). Some buses go to Dali Old City, too, so check with the driver. In Xiaguan, there are three different bus stations, to reach the train station, go east along Jianshe Lu and Dianyuan Lu. From Xiaguan Train Station (in Dali New Town) you can take bus 8 and bus 4 (¥2, 40 min approx. 18 km (11 mi)) to Dali Old Town, 13 km (8 mi) to the north (Bus 4 also runs through the town). If you took an express bus from Kunming it will drop you off at the old bus station. You will be greeted by an array of locals trying to sell you rides to Dali Old Town. You can avoid them and make a right out of the bus station, then another right and walk then make a left when you hit the Y/T intersection and walk approx. 100 m (330 ft). There will be a bus stop there for bus 8 to Dali Old Town (no real sign, just see where the locals are waiting). From the new express bus station you can hang a right out of the station and walk approx. 500 m (1,640 ft), see the aforementioned Y/T intersection and cross over the street to catch bus 8. It's also possible to catch a white mini-bus on Jianshe Lu that run between Xiaguan and Dali, there's usually a white sign displayed inside the front wind shield that reads (大理下关) in Chinese. The cost for the mini-bus is ¥3. Taxi fare between Xiaguan and Dali should be around ¥40.
Buses coming south from [wiki=fdf60c3468a39296d07c682c3f38daa5]Lijiang[/wiki] are about ¥60-80 and stop outside the old town, from where it is possible to get a taxi or walk to the main guesthouses. You can save about ¥20 on the Lijiang bus by simply hailing one on the highway east of the old town.
There is a bus service to Xiaguan from [wiki=86a14c3e5ed437bfb193dc1683f897b7]Jinghong[/wiki], [wiki=9daf2a0620febcb853beda834f7e7262]Xishuangbanna[/wiki] province, which has buses running at 17:00 and 21:30, possibly earlier too. Tickets are ¥195 and trip is 17 hours. The bus used on this route is a sleeper bus so you get a fairly comfortably bed and a blanket. This service may be useful for people who have arrived in China from northern [wiki=601aebf4afb1db3fdb5c88f3cdda23ef]Laos[/wiki], e.g. [wiki=1562a9475e6f9ef2021b53ae45396afd]Luang Namtha[/wiki].
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By train
There are several night trains from [wiki=08b9a179ae67e6d81b865889bc2e9417]Kunming[/wiki] to Dali Train Station (in New City) leaving 20:00-23:00, and arriving from 6-8 hr later. The cost is ¥105 for a night trains sleeper bunk, and ¥31 for day trains hard seat.
Bus 8 to the old town leaves regularly for ¥2 from just outside the station. After around 30 minutes it will stop near the East Gate, recognisable by the array of helpful people that will try to guide towards their taxis, restaurants or hotels. Head west along this street and you'll soon arrive in the centre of the old town. If you miss this stop stay on the bus for a few more minutes and get off at the end; this is the far north end of the city. Take the first right where the departing buses are waiting, continue straight (west) past the gate for the hospital and you'll come to the North Gate of Fuxing Rd.
There are currently (2014) at least 4 trains daily from Lijiang to Dali and back. The ride takes nearly 2 hours. ¥30 for hard seat.
There are at least (2014) 3 trains to Dali from Lijiang each day, the first one at 08:26 (K9612), the next one at 17:00. The last one is with the overnight sleeper to Kunming. The price is ¥34, for the hard seat. You do not need to go to the train station to book tickets, there is a train ticket shop on Yumihe Commercial Pedestrian St off Fuhui Rd. You may need to ask for directions but if you're walking down Fuhui Rd from Lijiang old town, walk on the right of the road and turn down the first open pedestrian street to your right, just before the bank on the corner. The shop is approximately 200 m (650 ft) down on the left hand side. There's a ¥5 surcharge on the tickets purchased from here as advised in English on the official government notice. (Feb 2013)
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By plane
Dali Airport (大理机场; Dàlǐ Jīchǎng ) is located to the east of New City, 13 km (8 mi) from South Gate. Direct flights include [wiki=78fb473f134eed43c959f9ebdeeb4050]Beijing Capital[/wiki], [wiki=f4aa575f70b3f78887deb96ce611b187]Chengdu[/wiki], [wiki=55b210da416ad9696c6dd74e4b836b7e]Chongqing[/wiki], [wiki=50a13d0dbb195487a4b6c602ea0fe532]Guangzhou[/wiki], [wiki=b51a587f0ffd2bb3ec09302c474181d8]Guiyang[/wiki], [wiki=08b9a179ae67e6d81b865889bc2e9417]Kunming[/wiki], [wiki=5466ee572bcbc75830d044e66ab429bc]Shanghai-Hongqiao[/wiki], [wiki=8f3199f4c051d7e2597afb0b55b23dee]Shenzhen[/wiki] and [wiki=9daf2a0620febcb853beda834f7e7262]Xishuangbanna[/wiki]. There are no airport buses. Taxis are waiting but cannot always be trusted to take you to the guesthouse/hotel you want to go to as they get commission at a lot of hotels. Better book an airport pick-up with the hotel you booked.
Alternatively, you can go to Kunming Wujiaba International Airport by plane. It is located in the southeast of Kunming. You can then take the [url=http://www.airport-china.com/kunming-wujiaba-airport/traffic/airport-shuttle.html]Airport Shuttle bus[/url] from Kunming airport. They operate 06:30-22:00.
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Old Town is small enough to get around on foot, and being laid out in a grid format it is relatively easy to navigate. The major landmarks are the South and North Gates with Fuxing Rd running between them, and Yangren St (Westerner's St) lined with cafés and tourist shops. City maps are readily available for around ¥5 but tend not to follow the usual north-at-the-top standard because the natural orientation of someone in Dali is to look towards the huge, looming Cangs Mountain which runs north-south next to the city. As you look at the mountains and face west, the lake is at your back (east). This method of orientation makes even more sense when you realize that the entire town gently slopes from the mountains to the lake, making those two landmarks a natural way to find your bearings.
Bikes are also available at many guesthouses and rental huts around town and cost ¥5-40 per day. Bikes vary greatly in quality so shop around for the best deal. Merida and Giant are among the better brands to consider.
Taxis in Dali Old Town generally cost ¥5 for under 3 km (1.8 mi) (though most drivers will ask for ¥10). For other locations outside Old Town, all prices are negotiable. A taxi to New City will cost around ¥40, to the railway station ¥50. A private car will cost the same (sep. 2014).
In addition to the Old Town, Dali is a Prefecture of over 10,000 km² (3,861 mi²). A whole range of destinations exist within the prefecture that are perfect for the adventurous traveller. All are relatively easily accessible from either Old Town or New City, the major city 13 km (8 mi) to the south. A lot of useful information is available from the cafes within the old town on day trips around the prefecture.
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Cangshan Mountains
If you visit Dali, plan to spend at least one day up in the mountains. You can also overnight at guesthouses behind Zhonghe Temple, enjoying the most blissful peace and quiet available in China. Well worth it!
The mountains are a national level Geopark and Nature Reserve and have much to offer plant, bird, flower and hiking enthusiasts.
Chairlifts available to go up the mountains and hike about 3-5 hours to the other chairlift to go down again (as of Apr 2012, the Zhonghe chairlift is not operating. As of Aug 2012 there is a new chairlift going up to around 4,000 m (13,123 ft). Recommended to purchase tickets before 12:00. ¥230.)
There seems to be efforts to deter hiking up the mountain to the Cloud Traveller's Path, and side trips from the path. All side trips seem to be closed (marked as do not enter, including one's marked as scenic sites on older hiking maps). Most maps on boards and at the ticket booths only indicate the Cable Cars, and ones that do show the trails are out of date and incomplete.
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Other sights
Total of 17 villages are spread along the Western shore of the Erhai Lake between Xiaguan and Xizhou. Take a tour by bike by riding East from Dali Old Town until you reach the lake in Caicun Village and then North beside the lake shore taking local paths and roads. A great opportunity to see village life at its best, meet locals, see the Banyan trees in each village square and admire local architecture. There are three Qing Dynasty bridges along the route.
It is also possible to hike around Erhai Lake, following the West Erhai Ring Road (环洱海西路). There are various hostels and guesthouses you can stay at along the lake, as well as small restaurants selling specialist Bai minority food. It is a 6-8 hour hike from Dali Old Town to Xizhou, and you will pass through various small villages along the way. A more relaxed way would be to split the walk into two days, stopping off at a lakeside hostel for one night.
* Visit Guanyin Temple and several islands. Go with a group and enjoy a great day out. Boats can be easily arranged as the owners come into town to drum up business and you can see what you are getting from the photobooks they carry. Ferry rides at real stations cost around ¥30. There are signs indicating that fishing boats and paddle boats can't carry tourists, although it is unclear what the definition of tourist is.
* A shallow pool that periodically swarms with countless butterflies. Otherwise the site includes a fairly nice park, a small butterfly breeding centre and an utterly bizarre exhibition hall with various pictures made from hundreds of dead butterflies of different colours which were presumably raised and killed on-site.
* Combine a trip to Erhai Lake with a visit to the Wase Market on the eastern shore of the lake. Wase is a traditional and conservative Bai town with a weekly market aimed at both townspeople and nearby farmers. The market offers an interesting look at life in a quiet country town, and runs every 5 days (5th, 10th, 15th, etc.).
* The compounds behind the pagodas were destroyed during the 1920s earthquake and later during the Cultural Revolution and were rebuilt starting in 1986. The Central Pagoda is almost 1,200 years old and represents a period when Dali was a Buddhist Kingdom. The Congshen Temple behind the Three Pagodas has recently been rebuilt and reopened, after deteriorating in the 20th Century due to earthquakes, fires and the Cultural Revolution. It is a massive complex that continues far up the mountain, where a climb to the top of the pagodas rewards with a beautiful overlook of Dali Ancient Town and Erhai Lake. Worth a visit for the Tang architecture, numerous statues of the Buddha and Guanyin with influences from both India and China, dragon fountains, and two small museum showcases.
* Shaping Town offers a lively weekly market with plenty of local color. The market starts early. A great chance to see local farmers out in force and literally watch plenty of horse trading. Not much to buy (unless you are a farmer) but gives you the feeling of life in a small country town.
* Xizhou has almost 200 national heritage listed private houses dating from the Qing Dynasty. The houses are among the best examples of traditional Qing architecture in China and are exquisitely detailed. Building craftsmen from Xizhou were famous throughout Southeast Asia and travelled to Vietnam, Myanmar and throughout Southwest China to build and decorate houses. When they made their fortune, they returned to Xizhou to build their own dream home. As most of these houses are currently occupied, you will need to be on your best behaviour, knock and enter with permission. The best way to see the finest examples are with a local guide as many of the interesting houses are difficult to find. Nonetheless, with a little legwork and good manners you can locate plenty of interesting architecture on your own. The family estate of the Yan clan is preserved as a museum and open to the public, and while an excellent example of the architecture of the very rich is too commercial and compares poorly with more ordinary family homes in the township. An American family helped to restore three nationally protected buildings in Xizhou, Xilinyuan, Yangzhuoran and Baochengfu. They used only local workers and their model of sustainable tourism has been embraced by the national government. They are working on other sites throughout Western Yunnan. Guests can tour their main site- The Linden Centre- for free from 1-5 every day. Baochengfu, which will open in January 2015 after two years of restoration, will have a cafe, restaurant, ceramics and cooking school, and Spa- all open to the public. In 2012 a new tourist robbery place have been opened near at the entrance of the city, it has the name of (喜韵居) they ask for entrance ticket (¥20) or in the national holiday obligatory performance ticket (¥60), but it is actually just a shopping place (tea/silver) with new buildings.
To get to Xizhou （喜洲）from Dali Old Town, walk to San Yue Jie （三月街） which is on the northwest corner of the Old Town. There you will see a number of minibuses parked along the road with 喜洲 or 双廊 marked on the front. These depart regularly all day, and cost ¥8-10 for the 20 minute journey. To get back to Dali Old Town, you can flag down a southbound bus along the main road for roughly the same price.
* Worth a visit. It has an extensive collection of exhibits, with most signs in both Chinese and English. The museum grounds are beautiful as well, the exhibits are set around a traditional garden.
* Eryuan is a small town next to Cibihu lake. After taking a bus that leaves every hour for ¥13 from the intersection with 214 National Rd near the North Gate market you can get off in Eryuan or anywhere along the way. If the bus is overloaded the bus driver's assistant will walk past police checkpoints with passengers that didn't have a seat. Cibihu Lake is about 3 km (2 mi) downhill from the usual bus stop in Eryuan. Very few motorbikes for hire go to the lake, so if you walk in, expect to walk out.
* Gives the opportunity to international artists to come exchanging an artistic experience in Dali, Yunnan, including Exhibition Shows, Artist in Residency programs, Artistic Creation and Meetings, indeed Collaboration with Chinese and foreign artists living in Dali.
* The mountain and its ranges look like a chicken's foot. Actually a 2-3 day trip in its own right. The top and slopes are covered in temples, many in a state of disrepair. Some have been restored and have resident monks. This is a difficult hike with the summit at 3,200 m (10, 500 ft). Be prepared. Or there are horse rides and a cable car that starts halfway up.
* This swimming pool is called a hot springs resort because it probably really uses naturally hot water. Other than that it might be a little different from what most people might expect. These days it is a regular, pretty run down swimming pool (one pool on the inside, one on the outside, otherwise identical) with all the spa's (that are still on the price list) being closed. Interestingly there are places to stay in the resort with rooms around ¥280.
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Guided trips in English, Spanish and Chinese for independent travellers or family travel, minorities trip, hiking and biking day trips. We happy to organise your Dali adventure hussle free with unlimited fun.
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Rice & Friends Chinese Cooking School offers hands-on Chinese cooking courses, highly rated on tripadvisor. Beautiful open-air setup with mountain views. Authentic and very personal 5-hr cooking experience, including outdoor-market shopping for ingredients, introduction to the theory of Chinese cooking, hands-on preparation of three dishes with a recipe booklet to take away and plenty of time for everybody to sit down together and enjoy the meal they cooked themselves.
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As ever, be prepared to bargain when shopping in Dali. See [wiki=265c2765006e4f2420c2cb99adc85f0e]Yangshuo (Tourist_stuff)[/wiki] for advice on prices in Chinese tourist towns.
Dali has a number of famous local products.
* Fried cheese - Yes, contrary to what many Chinese will tell you, China not only has but produces cheese! You might want to try the local rushan that is a crispy snack often wound around bamboo skewers. Available at many restaurants or from street stalls.
* Marble - Dali has exquisite marble (a little difficult to carry) which is carved into all sorts of products: vases, ashtrays, carved animals and more. The marble stone can also be cut and polished revealing pictures on the surface. These are known as chushi and can be bought framed and make beautiful wall decorations. Many people can mistake them for traditional Chinese paintings. Cheaper chushi (generally the white and grey type) will sell for ¥60+ per item. More expensive and colored stone with clear mountain landscapes can be priced at ¥10,000+. The Chinese word for marble is Dalishi or Dali stone, indicating just how famous Dali marble is throughout China.
* Tie-dye - The local tie-dye fashioned from dye and wax is also popular and cheap. One of the main production places is the Bai village Zhoucheng, about 40-min ride from Dali. This village also has a nice daily small afternoon market and some nice old Bai houses as well.
* Embroidery - You can also purchase beautiful minority embroidery (generally Miao minority from Guizhou Province) at a number of shops. The embroidered items include baby carriers, clothing or decorative patches that were attached to traditional costume.
* Teahouse - Dali has great teahouses. Relax in one regularly, buy a little tea and you will be welcome to come back at any time, with friends -- usually for free. Sample new teas and as long as you buy something every so often, you will be welcomed again and again. (Really what you're doing is buying exorbitantly and then not being asked to buy for a while -- it all works out.)
* Antiques - There are many antique shops very close to each other on Yù'ěr Lù (玉洱路). Start at the intersection of Yěyú Lù (叶榆路) and walk west. It can be very interesting to browse here. Even if you're not a regular collector you will probably be tempted to buy something when you see how badly some of these treasures are being handled and stored.
*The Birdbar Cafe now offers a wide range of hand made produce, all made by local dali artisans. Fresh roasted coffee beans, hemp body oil, soaps,handi-crafts ext.
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In Old Town, Western food is widely available and cheap. For a traditional Chinese meal served catering for four people along with beer expect to pay ¥80. Western meals average around ¥50, including a bottle of local beer. Breakfast prix fixe menus are served everywhere and average around ¥25 including coffee.
Fruit stands and corner stores abound. Try to get a feel for prices before buying if you want to avoid paying exorbitant prices. You can buy apples for ¥1-2/shijin (0.5 kg/1.1 lb), a bottle of water for ¥1.5 and noodles/dumplings for ¥4/plate.
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Budget
Noodle shop that specialised in Cross-the-Bridge Noodles, a local specialty where a bowl of hot broth is brought to the table and the rice noodles and a number of plates with small quantities of other foods is immediately added by the waiter. The menu is all in Chinese but there are pictures displayed throughout and ordering should be no problem.
* Great place for fresh homemade dumplings. Nine (9) dumplings with sauce just made and freshly steamed only cost ¥3.5.
* All-you-can-eat vegetarian buffet operated by Buddhists, the choices are usually six different vegetable dishes, soup, rice, and pickled vegetables. You may fill your bowl as many times as you like, but you are expected to lick it clean in the end, and return it to the kitchen. There are also free tea and snacks.
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A 500 ml (17 fl oz) bottle of Dali Beer will cost you around ¥10-12 in a bar and about ¥3-4 from a grocer. A large selection of beer is on offer but some are coloured green and require an acquired taste. But for the price, there is no excuse not to sample the lot.
* Dali's longest running foreign bar. It is hosted by two well-traveled Englishmen Carl and Scott who entertain guests before the dancing starts later in the evening with a Derek and Clive patter of jokes and one-liners. The Monkey is a magnet to travelers both foreign and Chinese (many of whom seem to wander in and never leave), as well as remaining popular with Dali locals. The bar has a pool table, dancing pole, a huge selection of local and imported beers and spirits (as well as their own pints of various Bad Monkey Beers on tap, made locally at the bar's microbrewery [url=http://www.badmonkeybar.com/brewery/],]and regular performances by bands and DJs. Opens in the morning as a cafe, providing real Western breakfasts; Thai, Indian, Chinese and Western cuisine are also available throughout the day.
*A cool relaxed place where people come with music to spin. Owned by A Chun, an awesome, friendly girl from Lin Cang, this is a place to come and meet people and listen to music. Well worth a visit for a few drinks, well worth a stay in the rooms they have for visitors in the courtyard.
*Boulder bar offers bouldering (and shoe rental), cheap beer, and information on rock climbing around Dali. Has a small bouldering wall upstairs and can arrange kayaking and rafting tours as well. Part of Goodfellas pizza.
*For most people who stay in Dali for more than a couple days, Xiaguan tends to get extremely short shrift. Dismissed as the more developed and industrial reminder of China that most foreign travellers in China want to blissfully forget, it contains more than a few gems that are regrettably passed over by the wash and lure of Old Town's all too visible tourist scene. This restaurant/bar makes an evening trip to the south of the lake worth it, though those wishing to stop there first while arriving in town would not be disappointed, since it tends to stay open late. They offer extremely kitschy Revolution-era Chinese military and cultural memorabilia decor, as well as one of the most friendly and talkative owners in the area (for those who speak Chinese, though you can always pretend you don't if you want a quiet evening), but the real deal is in the food and booze. Try their various homemade flavored liquors made from every fruit in the area, the Plum baijiu is one of the favorites (梅子酒）. The food is just unpretentious and absolutely delicious local comfort food, the stir-fried erkuai with peanuts and chives (炒饵块) and dumplings tossed in chili sauce shouldn't be passed over. Vegetarian options are limited, though its still worth the trip as a strictly drinking place for those coming from the Old Town. This place is closing within a year [as of March 2012[/url] because the local government wants to demolish their block to probably make way for some fancy apartment buildings or drab retail center, and as one of the more interesting places in China outside of the huge metropolises, with honest staff and excellent quality food and drink, it deserves your patronage. Support this place and let them know their business would still be appreciated in a new location.
* On Bo'ai Lu, has homemade wine and fruit wines, needs your help in advising
how to blend good wines. Great baked potatoes with tuna fish topping. Owner speaks English and listens to Billie Holiday.
*For those of you who are more used to Chinese style entertainment, the KTVs opposite the Old City West Gate offer a much cheaper alternative to Waterfall Street. Prices should be around ¥200 for a room and a dozen bottles of Dali beer. They have a surprisingly large selection of English language songs too.
* Considered by many to be one of the most beautiful settings to drink coffee or eat lunch, The Linden Centre has three elegant dining areas, a fully-stocked Western bar, and a terrace that floats above the surrounding rice fields and offers unimpeded views of the mountains and historic complexes of Xizhou village- all housed in a restored national relic! A must if you are visiting Dali!
*Designed for local foreign and Chinese residents of Dali, but opened to tourist, The Backyard is focused on activities. There is a petanque field, darts, Foosball table, beer pong table and a pool table. Beer, Cocktails and snacks are available.
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Budget
Dali has some of the cheapest accommodation options available in all China, and as a hostel hotbed, is perhaps no surprise. Expect to pay ¥15-30 for a dorm bed, ¥40 and up for rooms, ¥60-300 for a double room with private shower and toilet.
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Mid-range
Beautiful spacious rooms with colouful and handmade furniture. Singles, doubles, 3 and 4 bed family rooms. Great garden, rooftop bar and terrace. Playground for kids. From ¥300 incl BF. Same owner as Jim's Guesthouse (see above). Owner Jim (a local) is a fluent English speaker and was the first local to start business with foreigners/ Organizes great (day)trips: trekkings, overland to Tibet etc, can be found on their website. Bookings accepted by e-mail.
* Spacious rooms with internet access against surcharge. Business center, currency exchange, gift shop, ticket office, massage and sauna available. Chinese restaurant, coffee shop and room service.
*In one of Southwest China's most pristine examples of traditional Bai architecture. Developed and managed by an American couple who has been involved in China since 1984, offers 14 upscale double rooms in the completely restored, nationally-protected villa. The Centre also has a small museum, two restaurants, a cafe/bar, library, conference rooms, exercise room, and four elegant courtyards full of gardens and outdoor seating.
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Splurge
Linden Centre[http://linden-centre.com/]. 喜林苑 is one of the only national relics open to overnight stays in China. Long time China residents (since 1984) and American scholars Brian and Jeanee Linden (Stanford and University of California) spent three years restoring one of China's most impressive examples of pre-revolutionary architecture. The Centre has been chosen as China's Hotel of the Year by Tripadvisor.com, and the Lindens have been recognized with international accolades such as Travel and Leisure's Global Vision Award and Society of American Travel Writers Phoenix Award. The Linden Centre has 16 guest rooms, a restaurant, bar/cafe, fitness centre, game rooms, etc., and a library of 2000 volumes highlighting the history and traditions of the region. The Lindens have two other nationally protected sites in Xizhou: 1. The Linden Commons, which has 14 elegant guest rooms, a Western and Chinese restaurant, ceramics/painting/textiles workshops, holistic Spa, and upscale cooking school; 2. The Education Annex, which houses innovative learning programs for international schools and universities, including Sidwell Friends Semester Program and Shanghai American School's Micro Campus. The three sites, along with the Lindens' 75 staff, most of whom are locally trained and supported by the Lindens, make Xizhou one of the most uniquely authentic rural destinations in China.
* Five star hotel in Bai architecture style. Very large rooms with free internet. Business center, currency exchange, gift shop, beauty salon, ticket office, karaoke, night club, billiards, table tennis, fitness, tennis, massage and outdoor swimming pool available. Chinese and Western restaurants as well as coffee shop and bar. The hotel comes with everything you can expect from a Chinese five star hotel, but lacks something in taste, service and Western breakfast compared to what you will find in larger cities.
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The Public Security Bureau (for visa-related affairs) is on YuHua Lu, and can be reached very easily by taking the number 8 bus and getting off when you go past the big building with the Eiffel tower-lookalike antenna on the roof; this is the PSB.
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There are a few scams and petty crime targeting tourists in Dali. Watch your belongings carefully to protect from pickpockets and theft, though perhaps the major risk you take if staying in cheap accommodation is theft by other foreign travellers. Overall Dali is a very safe place with little crime directed at tourists.
If you are planning to hike up the Cang mountains, travel in a group both to protect yourself from robbery and as back up in case of accident. Stay on the paths and don't take any risks climbing no matter how experienced you are, as fatal accidents do happen!
As with most places in China, make sure you get your tickets to attractions from a reputable source. Touts outside may try and sell you used tickets. Cangshan Cable Car tickets are hole punched so easily spotted, although they may try and cover up the hole (especially when you point it out to them).
Drugs disguised as strange artifacts are usually sold by women in traditional Bai costume, who will then lead you to their homes. Marijuana was widespread in Dali's foreign bars before 2009, when police crackdowns and arrests forced the smokers back into the alleys and guesthouses. It is still widespread, of course, but it is no longer tolerated in public. It is not uncommon to see marijuana growing in the wild. Women may also offer you "opium," though it is just worthless garbage, possibly sesame oil pressed with some unknown substance. The summer of 2012 all the old ladies and other dealers have disappeared or do not sell any weed anymore.
Don't get your shoes fixed by men approaching you on the corner of Fu Xing Rd and Foreigner St. Even if a price is agreed, they will add a couple of extra stitches and charge ridiculously inflated prices (¥200-300). You're in a difficult position to argue because they have your shoes! Just go to a regular established shoe shop (there are several towards the East end of Renmin Rd) where you can get your shoes repaired well for less than ¥10.
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To Kunming (340 km/210 mi), direct buses from Old Town to the West Bus Station can be arranged through any hotel or travel agent in town for around ¥120. Direct flights to Kunming, as well. To the Kunming Airport, an express shuttle runs between the Kunming West Bus Station and the airport for ¥8, taking approx 45 min.
Many travelers from Kunming continue on from Dali to Lijiang or hopping around to the different points around Dali's er'hai lake. Consider staying at Xizhouzhen (38 km/24 mi to the north) if you like quiet old towns.
Consider taking the smaller bus through the mountains toward Jianchuan (can be picked up at the main bus station in Xiaguan - "New" Dali City). Get off the bus at the fork in the road in the village of Diannan (about 8 km south of Jianchuan). Get into a minibus and visit the Old Southern Silk Road town of [wiki=fb00f71d937a1aba3de475d74a7609d0]Shaxi[/wiki]. The town has been well preserved and still holds much of its traditional character. The valley around it is littered with Qing and Ming Dynasty homes, bridges, theatres and temples. It is also the main jumping off point to visit the beautiful grottoes at Shibaoshan. After your visit to Shaxi it is easy to continue your journey. A minibus from Shaxi or Shibaoshan can take you to the main bus station in Jianchuan. From there it is easy to get a bus on to Lijiang.
There is also a sleeper service to [wiki=515ccfe6c0ca6107160a3360f9fb5737]Shangrila[/wiki], coming from Xiaguan, and passing Dali at 20:30h (¥120). However, it fills up quickly and can only be booked at a few agencies on Foreigners Rd (as of Oct 2009). Buses depart from Xiaguan North bus station every half hour in the morning until 12.30pm. The #8 bus can be taken to get here from old town.
The border with [wiki=217fa54cc9351504fcde32147bff005d]Myanmar[/wiki] (Burma) is approx 240 km (150 mi) southeast of Dali; a bit closer is [wiki=cec9229ae82a241f423d655f7ee1d0d0]Nujiang[/wiki] and the Three Parallel Rivers Area of Yunnan.
[[Category: Populated places in China]]
[wiki=8fd1f430071e1e6b63644a7a29e96400]it:Dali[/wiki]
[wiki=049cab1abdf243802f5b92f47717f29c]ja:大理[/wiki]
[wiki=e2e2da6bd0caeaf2d58df73e3d611e9f]wts:Category:Dali (Yunnan)[/wiki]
[[WikiPedia:Dali]]
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