Tunis (تونس) is the capital of [wiki=d6dacba23ab4a1d5b72f223bfb010a05]Tunisia[/wiki].
Tunis is divided into the old city, known as the medina, and the new city, or ville nouvelle in French. Ave Habib Bourguiba is the large avenue running through the new city from the clock tower to the Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul. It then turns into Ave de France, which runs for a few blocks until ending at the Place de la Victoire and the Port de France, a large free-standing gate that used to be the entrance to the medina. This can be a good landmark for taxi drivers, as some of the smaller streets nearby aren't sure to be known by name.
The Port de France also serves as a good entry point for exploring the medina. Rue Jemaa Zaytouna leads past lots of shops to the ez-Zaytouna Mosque, the great mosque of Tunis and the center of the medina. Running obliquely to Rue Jemaa Zaytouna, and also with an outlet near the Port de France, is the Rue de la Kasbah. This runs all the way through the medina to the Place du Gouvernment and the Place de la Kasbah, a huge square fringed by razorwire. It is fairly easy to move between the two streets by cutting across the labrynthine medina, and it is easy to keep your bearings and find an exit. Rue Jemaa Zaytouna seemed to be a better entry point from the Port de France at night, remaining relatively well traveled. Rue de la Kasbah, on the other hand, is active after dark on the Place de la Kasbah side, but is extremely dark near the Port de France. It is recommended to get a feel for the medina during the day so that you will feel more confident if you find yourself and alone and need to find a landmark at night. The Medina is open during Ramadan from 08:00 until 16:00 and on a Sunday around 1/4 of the shops open. If you want to find your way out just head downwards and you will find your way back to the Port de France.
Note that as of May, 2014, most of the central city ( centre ville ) is closed by 9:00pm.
Tunis-Carthage Airport (TUN), 8 km away from the centre, is small and in reasonable shape with all standard facilities. Free wifi is available at several of the restaurants, including Caffe Lindo, but is not always working. International flights will arrive on the ground floor of the airport. Tunisian law requires all currency to be exchanged within the country. It's illegal to bring Tunisian currency with you outside the country or inside, though it can be done at most travel desks if you sign a waiver. The major western carriers who service Tunis-Carthage are Air France, British Airways and Lufthansa, from Paris, London and Frankfurt. You can exchange money at the airport or at your hotel. There are several ATMs, but some seem to struggle with international cards. On the ground floor beneath the Banque de Tunise sign and next to the cafe L'Escale there is a reliable one. Toilets are clean but have attendants that ask for change after use. If you don't bring your own, be sure to get toilet paper from the attendant.
If you bring sterling with you then you will get a good exchange rate. There is a desk to the left just after customs with a reliable ATM next to it.
When you change money over you will be given a printed receipt of the transaction, keep this as when you return to the airport and change your money back they will not accept it unless you provide a receipt of a transaction.
Keep a few dinars when flying home though as although Duty Free is in Euro the food stalls the other side of customs take dinars.
There is a taxi rank immediately outside the terminal building. Do not respond to the touts who will approach you, but go directly to the clearly marked queue. Note that large taxis are intended for regional trips and unmetered, but will attempt to persuade you that they are deluxe. Small taxis are local for trips to Tunis city and should use their meter. Refuse to get into any taxi that offers a fixed or 'special' price. A taxi into the city center - insist on the meter - cost around 5 dinars by meter during the day as of May 2014. Check the meter before commencing your journey and it will start at 0.5 dinar. A favourite trick of the drivers is to not reset their meter and add your fare to their previous one. Some drivers may also have had their meter adjusted to charge at a faster rate. Good luck!
A fare from the airport to the Centre Ville will cost no more than 5 dinar.
Alternatively, buses depart fairly regularly during the day (but not at night) and charge a fraction of the price but take much longer.
Many taxi drivers lack a GPS map unit and house signage (numbering) is barely existent. The driver will by no means necessarily be familiar with your destination and probably won't speak English. Make sure you have a map, an address (for what it's worth) and a phone number of someone at the destination. GPS in your phone is best, although the lookup on Google Maps between addresses and physical locations, for Tunis, is not really close enough (especially given the lack of signage) to locate an address.
Beware of the taxi drivers. At night some may ask up to 40 TD depending on where you are going. An unspoken rule is the first taxi driver who grabs your luggage and places it in the trunk of his car makes the contract for your transportation. It's not uncommon to be barraged with over ten taxi drivers at once as you walk outside the terminal. They can reach for your bag aggressively--not to steal it, but to make an attempt at winning your business. Some meters can be tampered with. If you don't trust the taxi's meter, then negotiate a price to where you going before you leave the front of the terminal. It may be advisable to ask for an average taxi rate from your hotel front desk before leaving.
You may also find minor taxi-driver confidence tricks occurring; where as you approach the taxi rank someone will tap you confidently on the shoulder and point you to a taxi, as if he is a dispatcher.
Most people - including taxi drivers - do not speak English. There are various hanger-ons around the taxi rank who do. They will for example once you have picked a taxi without asking move your luggage from your trolley into a taxi and help you converse with the driver - and then ask you for some change. They can be useful, for the translation, but you may well find they then try to ask for ridiculous money for the help - 20 dinar, say, which is four times the price of the taxi ride. Basically, you have to assume *everyone*, no matter what or whom or what for, except the people you yourself speak to and decide to hire, are pushing themselves on you.
[[File:Railways_in_Tunisia.jpg|thumb|200px|Passanger connections in Tunisia:
red and purple - routes with passanger trains
black - routes with only freight trains
grey - not used routes
[url=http://sharemap.org/public/Railways_in_Tunisia]Interactive map[/url] ]]
Tunis Central Station is near Place de Barcelone for easy interchange onto the light metro. Trains are generally cheap and comfortable, but if you want to ride first class during peak season, do reserve your seat in advance. Trains are run by SNCFT.
Tunis is a main hub of Tunisia railway system - Tunis Railways Station when it this possible to change from north system trains (this system uses normal rail gauge) to south train network (which uses narrow gauge). The station is unique because different platforms has different track gauges.
It is not highly recommended to drive in Tunisia, due to poor quality of roads, driving habits, and poor signage. It is also more dangerous to drive at night, and outside of the city and major tourist areas.
Tunisia has over 70 bus lines, with Tunis at the hub. There are two bus stations in town, with Gare Bab el Fellah serving southern destinations and Gare Bab Saadoun serving those to the north. Buses are run by SNTRI at both stations. The relevant louage stations are beside each.
Ferries connect Tunis to a number of international destinations including [wiki=f734a2c8864a183568195a6670c7a6ef]Trapani[/wiki], [wiki=8191692ba6c002b14b07549113e62125]Palermo[/wiki], [wiki=866f0aee219a317e89a5909c9cc9e541]Naples[/wiki], [wiki=ee16127dadae769a7ce454a0a6234b6b]Civitavecchia[/wiki], [wiki=5efb98cc2a44abbe2973aecc6cc85a58]Livorno[/wiki],[wiki=92468e8a62373add2b9caefddbcf1303]Malta[/wiki] [wiki=5e59a42459a2d6cd3d93d5aab0764ca6]Genoa[/wiki] and [wiki=8377de0f1845174610bd8b815b9a285e]Marseille[/wiki]. The main ferry terminal is at [wiki=96eaba5c95e2fef1ec710507c661d72c]La Goulette[/wiki], but check your departure terminal carefully as there are also other ports. Operators include GNV[http://www3.gnv.it/en/gnv-home/gnv-home/0/home/0/140/0/home-page.html], Cotunav, Grimaldi Lines, Sncm.
There is a tram system in Tunis (it's not really a metro, as it's fully above ground). Tickets are very cheap (.48 DT for one trip) but the system is grossly overloaded during the rush hours, and indeed the rush hours are extended by this, as people simply have to let trains go by until enough people have been moved that there comes to be enough space that it is possible to board.
Be clear about this - during the rush hours, the commute to and from work, the tram *cannot* be used, because it is physically *impossible* to board. The tram is full; absolutely packed. You will either have to walk or take a taxi, or wait for the rush hours to pass. Taxis can often be impossible to flag down, too, since they're all full.
Tickets are bought from a little booth at each stop. There are two, one on each side, but usually only one is occupied. A ticket is for one trip; if you're going to make multiple trips, you cannot buy say four tickets when you board, because they are all timestamped at the moment of purchase. Towards the evening, the booths are no longer manned; instead, a staff member will be on board each tram and you buy your ticket on the tram. These staff members do not speak English (but they will speak French).
There are apparently month long tickets, but you cannot buy them at the stations. Note the stations are not marked in anyway; no name plates. You will only know which station you're at by using GPS and a phone map.
Not every stations has a matching station in the other direction. Most station do, but of a few of those, their matching station sometimes is a bit of a walk up or down the line.
Abid, 98 rue de Yogoslavie, tel: 216 1257052. You can get a solid meal such as lamb in macaroni for TD5.
* Restaurante Les 3 Étoiles, Rue Mustafa M'barek. Very cheap and filling food such as couscous and salads.
*Very friendly owner and his cook speak some English. Delicious iftar (breaking of the daily ramadan fast) of fish soup, bread, harissa, a fried pastry with tuna and a softboiled egg, minced cabbage, grilled chicken and fries, a spicy olive paste, and a lime Bogo, all for 9.500 TD.
*This place can be crowded and the smoke might make this rather unsuitable for children or asthma patients, but the food is good, the service fast and correct and a pizza and a beer should cost no more than 11 dinars. Also a good place for (male) solo travellers.
* DeCarlo, Avenue Hedi Chaker (at the corner of Rue de Cologne in LaFayette), One of the city's better patisseries, there is a bakery on the corner serving hot, fresh pastries (.600-1 DT), and a shop on Avenue Hedi Chaker with cakes, cookies and great ice creams (1-5 DT).
L'Orient 7, Rue Ali Bach Hamba, tel: 216 71 252 061. Just off Rue Habib Boughiba opposite the theatre, towards Port de France. Good food served in a delightful remnant of old Tunis. Charming suited waiters with napkins over their sleeve offer prompt and courteous service. Seafood is a specialty, sourced directly from the iced display cabinet. Local and imported wines. TD18 and upwards.
* La Mamma, Av de Carthage, tel: 216 71340423, email: lamamma@planet.tn. Very cosy restaurant on several floors. Good italian inspired food. Has live music and is open to 3 am.
* El Khalifa, rue d'Iran, tel: 216 22428470. close to Metro stop Nelson Mandela. Delicious West African food at very reasonable prices, popular with employees of the African Development Bank. Far tastier and friendlier than the typical mediocre Tunisian restaurant experience. Open for lunch only until 3pm, Monday through Saturday.
Perhaps the best of the restaurants in Tunis, this restaurant pays attention to every single detail. You don't even open the door - just knock on the large yellow door, and they open it (this gives it the appearence of not being open). The food is excellent, and the management speaks English and French fluently, and can recommend various dishes. The menu is a bit complicated, with price categories, rather than prices, listed (check the last page for what each price category costs). The physical setting is inside a beautiful, tiled covered courtyard, and has private areas off to the side. As of March '09, prices for a main course ranged from 20-30, appetizer 7-9, and water or tea 3.5. Everything is recommended, though the couscous is simply good, but not incredible.
A couple of French supermarket chains have a presence in Tunis. Carrefour have a few supermarkets, as do Monoprix and Magasin General. These are by Western standards small stores, and more particularly, as is common in fact in Tunis, their range of products is significant less than in the West. You will find any single given product doesn't have just one place on a shelf, but a couple; an entire wall fridge unit might be completely packed, but only with two items, one being peas, the other being say strawberries. Supply is also a bit erratic - items which are present one day, once sold out, might not be seen again, or for a long time. Product quality is somewhat poor, although the international brands are of course the same everywhere.
The fresh bread products are typically good.
Fresh meat products are not always all that fresh; fresh chicken for example is best eaten on the day of purchase, and even then it can smell a little. The range of fresh fruit and vegetables is quite limited. You do better for fruit buying from the better of the many street-side vendors or visiting the Central Market.
Prices are a bit cheaper than in the West, but not by much.
Also referred to as Auberge de Jeunesse and Tunis Youth Hostel. Buried deep within the Medina and a bit of a challenge to find, although there are intermittent signs along the way. During the day you can just push through the crowd of shoppers straight up the Rue de la Kasbah from the Port de France until you see the signs pointing to your right, just after the restaurant Dar Slah, although this route might be intimidating after dark. This former palace of a sultan is architecturally impressive. Rooms are basic and cooled only by fan. The included evening meal is filling. Breakfast, a simple affair of French bread and coffee, is a bit ropey and is served in the large open courtyard.
The communal bathrooms, however, are not cleaned regularly, and may border on offensive. The shower times are limited to an hour in the morning and at night, though hot water may not be available at these times. Plan on using the local hammams for all hot water and cleaning needs.
* Located perfectly at Porte de France, this (very) basic hotel offers cheap accommodation. Every floor (5 or 6 rooms) share a bathroom that may be a little dirty (1 dinar). This place urgently needs some fresh paint, but for this price, it's not all that bad of a deal.
Located in a neat old building with marble staircases and a friendly staff. They do not speak much English, although it was no problem. Free wifi in the lobby and courtyard and some rooms on the first floor, two communal computers, but cannot comment on price or quality, although one had a webcam attached. Breakfast was coffee/tea, bread, coffee, and apricot jam. Easily accessed by taxi to the Port de France, where Rue Mustapha M'barek is just a quick left off of the main road running south past the front of the gate. In practice the hotel does not respond to email enquiries and only deals by phone, and only in French. Even with a reservation, you are expected to confirm by phone 24 hours in advance. You may be best to book your first night online elsewhere and then make arrangements in person.
*This hotel captures a slightly faded, colonial era charm. Rooms are basic (the hotel building is old) but clean. Free wifi in the lobby. Excellent restaurant with bar (2.5 TD Celtia) that provides room service. Breakfast is included in the price, and the croissants are better than average. Rooms come with ensuite sink and shower, but shared toilets - a room with a toilet is an extra 10 TD. Some rooms overlook the local tram, which can be excessively loud - you may want to look out the window to the street below, and possibly listen to the noise of the passing tram. Located half a block north of Place Barcelone.
*Ground plus four levels, the first three accessible by lift. Nice mosaics. Lots of lounge space near the lobby. A little noisy, but nicely located. There is a roof accessible on the fourth floor (turn left after climbing the stairs, walk to the end, and open the unlocked door to your left): good for fresh air or some sun, though the view is not brilliant. Disinterested management. Poor water pressure observed on level 4.
There are many prostitutes that "use" this hotel, and female travellers are well advised to avoid the first floor, especially at night, when Johns may come a-knockin'.
A luxury hotel in a century old mansion in the Medina, this is best accessed (at least until you get your bearings) by taking a taxi to Place du Government on the West side of the Medina - it's a few blocks walk from there. [http://www.darelmedina.com/]
* Modern hotel overlooking the entire city. Conviently located in the Central Business District.
*A 5-star hotel with an excellent thalassotherapy center. The marble and the decorationof the place create the real sensation of harmony and good serenity in mind of the Moorish bath. The accommodation also brings this sensation of tranquillity thanks to the decoration of rooms and their comfort. The place is ideal for the persons in search for tranquillity as seniors or couples; it is moreover the choice of preference of the amateurs of plastic surgery in Tunisia for their convalescence like this [http://www.docteur-sami-mezhoud.com/]
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This is the metropolitan train service, Métro Léger de Tunis. Tickets are less than one dinar and service is frequent, but busy during rush hour. The station is located a few hundred metres to the east of the clock tower and the raised Trans-African Highway No. 1 directly east from the main drag (Avenue Habib Bourgouiba; the one with the main Medina gate - just keep walking away from the Medina). The station is impossible to miss - it's a large building parallel to the road on the south side. Note that if you're heading out this way, there is also a national tourism office on the north-east side of the clock tower (that effectively demarcates the edge of Tunis' larger buildings before the highway), and they provide free maps and advice regarding Tunis and Tunisia.
* [wiki=6b616d5cc0e29fed940841e854c78591]Carthage[/wiki], famously razed by the Romans with the few remnants now safely encased in a museum, easily reached by train. Get the TGM from east of the clock tower
* [wiki=32dec69196d9651c33e3f6fa516272d8]La Marsa[/wiki], a beach-side settlement at the end of the TGM train line, just north of Sidi Bou Saïd
* [wiki=05547db7143b2909ca67f57abcea0081]Sidi Bou Saïd[/wiki], a lovely village of white-and-blue houses and fancy cafés and restaurants, easily reached by train
[wiki=150e814019d10a9f12bcedb642fa478e]Kerkouane[/wiki], Phoenician and Punic historical site 80 kilometres west of Tunis
* [wiki=249d6fffda34e725dcb1571ea2e56d5e]Quamart[/wiki] - A resort on Tunisia’s Mediterranean coast.
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