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By bus
There are frequent buses from [wiki=9cd81bc40b0b095de9d29cbaffeb6ee3]Fez[/wiki] and [wiki=ce71a80f1a74c844cc2cee8e136da045]Tetouan[/wiki] and also from [wiki=adf20488d00fb576b16546b1c93611b4]Casablanca[/wiki], [wiki=fbed5c7b6db0d0d1328875d041a152cd]Rabat[/wiki], [wiki=a5290cc8f75aef5a1e60f30d37baae70]Meknes[/wiki], [wiki=3d5a7deaa9855d6ed198e99341eda49f]Tangier[/wiki] and [wiki=b14c3890a187a7798035ac60d89b54f7]Ceuta[/wiki].
Local buses plying the route from Fez to Tetouan/ Tangier stop at Derdara (8 km away), where you can get into one of the frequent grand taxis for 5 Dh. This avoids the long uphill walk from the bus station.
The main bus station is a fifteen minute walk from the medina (which is uphill), trough Av. Mohamed V. There are usually a couple of petit taxis waiting for a customer at the entry. Don't pay more than Dh 10 to get to the medina. If it is hot, or, as is very likely, you have just endured a long coach drive to the town, you should seriously consider climbing into one of these taxis. Likewise, coming to Chefchaouen in the middle of the cold season can only make the ascending walkways as punishing as in the summer. With a heavy backpack, the walk up to the hotels of the town can be fairly strenuous!
On arriving in Chefchaouen, you may be met by touts at the bus station. These will probably try to take you to some cheap and low-quality hostel in the medina - but it is advisable to find the place by yourself, because if you arrive with touts, you'll be charged extra so they can get their commission. Touts will then insist that you follow them to their house in the medina, and there try to sell you a stash of dope for 300-500 Dh. Refusing to buy is not contemplated nor safe if you end up in such a situation, so just say no from the beginning and don't sympathise nor accept help.
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By taxi
If you are coming to Chefchaouen from Tangier, there are some companies who provide private transfers and excursions with private cars, minivans and English speaking drivers. A private day excursion from Tangier to Chefchaouen will normally cost about €110 (in total, so if you are 5 people then it would cost about €20 each). Alternatively, you can take a Grand Taxi (public taxi) which normally costs about 850dhs (€85). However, be careful that your driver does not try to overcharge you, as this is quite a common occurence. Also it is normal for people in Morocco to share taxis with other people, so you might not go directly to your destination. Learn some French or Arabic expressions to communicate with your driver if you take a Grand Taxi.
*[url=http://www.tangiertaxi.com]Tangier Taxi[/url]: 2 Route California, Tangier, Morocco. Private transfers, day trips and excursions to Chefchaouen. More expensive than the public taxis but still well-priced. €99 private day trip to Chefchaouen from Tangier.
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If you are looking for sports or peaceful hiking tours, Chefchaouen is the ideal starting point to branch out in the villages and the surrounding mountains of the Rif with a local guide who knows well the region or just by yourself.
There is an organisation offereing hiking and cultural tours outside city: [url=http://www.gitetalassemtane.com/en]Gite Talassemtane[/url] Tours for Ecotourism and Hiking in Chefchaoun.
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The medina (maps: [url=http://www.chaouen.info/assets/mapachaouen.jpg]][http://www.planetware.com/i/map/MAR/CHEC.JPG[/url]) is the focal point of interest for most visitors to Chefchaouen. Walking around the town with its whitewashed walls, originally decorated in this style by Jewish immigrants, can be a nice change to the hustle and bustle of the cities of Marrakech, Rabat, and Fez.
* The waterfall (Ras el Maa) to the east of the medina is a meeting point for local residents who come to cool off, chat and do their laundry (including carpets on sunny sundays). The café nearby is rather expensive, however it's a nice change from the main square.
* The ruins of an old mosque (Jemaa Bouzafar), on a hill behind the waterfall, overlook the medina and its crumbling tower offers great views of the town. Was restored in around 2013.
*The Looks quite interesting from the outside, but there isn't much to see inside. The place is well preserved. There's the tower and the prison amongst others that's worth a visit, and the courtyard is green and almost alien amdist the mountain setting. Should only be an option if you're either bored or want to get away from the bustle outside.
* The hill of the Hotel Atlas is a good viewpoint on the town and the valley, especially on sunsets. It can be reached from the south gate of the medina (Bab el-Ain) by climbing the road coasting the medina on the west side until the east gate (Bab Souk), and then uphill, crossing the old cemetery on a rocky path.
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Take a hike through the scenic Rif Mountains. There is a pathway leading up into the mountains just behind the waterfall frequented by backpackers. Don't mind the vast marijuana plantations; the farmers and goat herders that work them are used to tourists and will either ignore you or try to sell you hash. See "Stay safe" below.
* A strenuous hike up Jebel al-Kalaa (the peak immediately overlooking the town) is fun, but can take up to 9 hours round trip and goes by (and if you're lucky/unlucky, through) big marijuana plantations. The route is not well marked (with white and yellow), and you might have to trail blaze for parts of it if you lose the trail. Start by following the road up the southeastern valley, from where you'll get a good view of town, and look for the markings up the mountain. Bring plenty of water, and some snacks.
* Hike over the mountain to Azilane. Not for novices as there's a long winding ascent and descent but is worth a day, or two days with a stay at the Gite. Stunning views all the way and far from the madding crowd. From the gate near the waterfall follow the city wall around then start following the dirt track when you pass the campsite. This track takes you over the other side of the mountain and eventually after an hour's descent you can follow the signs for the Azilane Gite where Abdel Kader and family will greet you with hugs, tagines and good vibes. A glimpse into a timeless rural way of life.
* A two-day hike in the Talasemtane national park via Gite Talassemtane managed by Fatima a charming local woman (Gite, 300 Dh per person incl. diner and breakfast) to Akchour (Double rooms from 250 Dh) also starts up the big mountain on a 4WD track which goes of in the north of Chefchaouen just after the camping site. At the peak at about 1800m is a camping site. Be advised though that there maybe snow even until April, so be prepared for cold temperatures. There are at least two water sources on the way up, so you'll not need to carry too much water. It's about 14km until the gite in Asilane. The 4WD track continues until the next village from where one has to cross over a small valley, continue straight after passing a tomb-house and climb down the small path to the village of Inezgane. From there, a mule treck follows the river more or less closely and the gorgeous mountains, cliffs and breathtaking views. After a while the path goes down to the river over an ancient bridge and continues north, passing a source (although this one might dry up in summer) and eventually leads to the village of Akchour which has another Gite, but also cheaper accommodation. See below for getting back to Chaouen. There are more tracks and gites in the area. It is possible to even hike to [wiki=3ae5639075c84924fe046fce5def5a2f]Oued Laou[/wiki] at the mediterranean.
* Take a grand taxi to Akchour and do a 1.5h hike in the mountains towards the Pond de Dieu. After the dam, the path lies on the right side of the river and goes up the hill quite steep. The bridge was formed by the river floating underground and carving its way over millenia. There seems also be a way down at the river, so one can see the bridge from below. Don't try this in spring though, as after snow-melt or rain the river may be unpassable. To left over the river starts a path towards the cascades. Apparently this path also leads to the main cascade but it takes way more than 1h30 and it has quite adventurous bits of it. If you are trekker every now and then, it might be a bit hard. Also, shoes are highly advisable. Getting back may be a bit of a hassle sometimes, as the grand taxi (150Dh per taxi) only runs rarely. You can easily find lots of taxis that got filled up quickly as people were finishing their treks. On weekends in the afternoon, you may be able to hitch with locals who went there for a weekend trip and will the head back to Tanger. They can drop you at Dar Akouba from where it is easy to get transport back to Chefchoauen.
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All the usuals are on offer in the medina - carpets, leatherwares, spices, metal wares, etc. If you're a seasoned bargainer you can probably get better prices in Fes or Marrakech, but Chefchaouen is undoubtedly a more pleasant place to shop. You'll also find plenty of hippie-wear aimed at budget travelers and marijuana tourists. This is also the place to buy a heavy wool winter djellaba for about 300 MAD or asleeveless djellaba for 180 MAD (2013).
====Leather====
Chaouen is particularly renowned for leather artisans, and there are 4 or 5 workshops dotted through the town, whose goods you can find at many of the local stores and in the larger northern cities. Many of the craftsmen in Fes and Tetouan served their apprenticeships here. The choice in local stores is often limited to bags and purses, so if you're up for it take advantage of the workshops where you can tweak a standard design or come up with something entirely your own, even moving beyond traditional leather into snake, crocodile, lizard and more. They can make pretty much anything, from guitar straps and tobacco pouches, to handbags and jackets. It can take a couple of days to make the more complex designs, so head there on your first day, or have it shipped home (£6 within Europe).
* Run by a tremendously approachable man called Hassan, it can be found towards the eastern end of the medina, between the old olive tree and the waterfall. Once you're in the vicinity, just ask for "El Taller de Hassan" and you'll be pointed in the right direction (or call ahead). He speaks fluent Spanish and good English & French, and is totally amenable to any peculiarities or requests you might have. He doesn't look for sales out of his workshop, as he makes good trade through the various local stores and a few overseas bulk buyers, but he enjoys making one-off's, which makes for wonderful craftsmanship, great prices and no hassle.
Word of caution: I ordered a pair of boots and a tobacco pouch from Hassan in February 2011. The pouch I got the next day, excellent quality, no problem. But he said the boots would take three weeks to make and he would post them to me. Needless to say, I never got the boots and lost 50 euros in this way. I'd like to think there was a mistake somewhere along the line, but take care when placing large/expensive orders.
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The local specialty is baissara (which very few restaurants actually serve), but you'll also find the usual staples such as tajine (vegetable stew with goat or sheep), harira (tomato soup), kofte (meatballs) and tagras (fish). The Salada Marroqui is a salad of cucumber and tomatoes, while salada variada includes eggs. The region is also well known for olives and olive oil, and for goat cheese, which is sold on display in various shops.
If eating in the medina, avoid restaurants on the Kasbah square (plaza Uta el Hamman) offering tourist menus for 45 dh (drinks not included): they will just serve you very low-quality kofte and harira, for a more than average price.
* This little restaurant occupies both sides of the street, with tables on the road, under a tree, and on a roof terrace. Nice tajine and great cheese salad.
* Great fish tajine, great couscous. Open for 30+ years with a super friendly owner/chef!
* Also do a great fish tajine, and a shrimp tajine, salad and cous-cous are also very good. Great relation quality/price.
* For a sandwich break, head for the local sandwich dealer on the left of Bab el-Ain gate. Chicken, beef or shrimps sandwiches, with olives, salad and sauces, for 25Dh
This place opened in March 2012 and the owner Miloud has yet to decide on a name or get a sign for his sandwich shop. It's next to Hostal VallParadis, near Ras El Maa. He makes sandwiches. For 10Dh you get half a baguette packed with ham, tuna, olives, rice, cheese, salad and an omelette! That's less than half the price and more than twice the volume of similar vendors in the Medina. You can also order tagine, couscous and various other dishes at least an hour or two in advance and you'll get some real home cooking for a reasonable price. Expect to wait 30 minutes to an hour longer than the time you ask for. Very different from anything from local restaurants, but the prices aren't fixed. The chicken tagine is fantastic, the meat couscous OK.
*Small corner shop on the edge of the square near Dar Kzhana. These ladies sell some of the best pastries in the medina. They also sell savory triangular pastries filled with chicken (3 MAD). They open at 17:00 and sell out quickly.
*Small snack shop outside the Medina but near the main square serving tagines, sandwiches, harira soup (3 MAD) and chicken couscous (30 MAD,fridays). Excellent food at local prices.
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Alcohol is not readily available but can be found. Mint tea is prevalent (10 Dh the cup).
As for the whole of Morocco, avoid tap water for safety concerns, and drink bottled water (6 Dh for a cold 1 lt bottle) or drinks (8 Dh for 1/2 lt coke). Never pay more than 10 Dh for a bottle, even in restaurants.
Local breakfast includes milk-coffee (café con leche) and pancakes (baghrir) with honey and olive oil or butter, for 10-15 Dh. Good places to have breakfast with the locals are the bar on plaza Hauta, in the Medina, and the bar in front of the Gendarmerie Nationale in av. Mohamed V.
There is ONE bar in Chefchaouen, its name is Bar Oum-Rabiá and it is located on Avenue Hassan II, not very easy to find at first as it has only a little sign above the door. A little masculine, but a nice place to grab a beer (or two). Food is also recommendable there.
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Accommodation can be tight in the peak periods (mid-July to September) so it's advisable to arrive early or book ahead in these periods. A stroll through the medina will reveal dozens of cheap hotels, starting from Dh 40 per night for a single. Many of these hotels have roof terraces.
* Friendly centrally located family-run hotel. Excellent breakfast (different every day) served on glassed terrace with breathtaking views. Comfortable, warm rooms, full of light. Free wifi. What makes this hotel special are the owners, Om Koulthoum and Omar. They go out of their way to help, providing superb information, taking clients to nearby hammam and to shops and restaurants to ensure they avoid paying inflated tourist prices. Arab hospitality at its very best!
* Formerly known as hostal Sahara. Nice and clean, perfect for travelers on a budget, in an interesting building with wooden decorations; the staff speak mostly Spanish, and the reception boy is very kind and enjoys as a painter. The Hostel has a terrace (with rooms facing it); hot shower for 8 Dh
* A nice, clean place; catch it during low season and you'll likely end up with a room to yourself. Amenities include a big terrace with a hammock, laundry service, kitchen, and 24 hour hot water. The staff don't speak much English.
*Pension la Castellana (room Dh 75 per person) has a central courtyard and roof terrace. It is located next to Bank "Credit Agricole" at the south-western end of Place Outa el Hammam - the main tourist square.
*Harmony Hotel (room Dh 60 per person, Dh 100 double) located in the medina is good value for solo travellers, who pay less but still get double beds.
*Hotel Ourzazate (room Dh 60 per person) in the medina is a decent choice with a good location.
*A popular little budget hotel with a nice rooftop terrace and cool (occasionally damp if on the ground floor) rooms. It's not far from the main road in the medina, most locals can point the way. There is a shared kitchen and guests can use the washing machine upon request.
* Inside the medina, very clean, luminous rooms. Has shared showers, with lots of hot water. Some rooms ensuite. Some rooms have heating ( 250 DH) that is a very nice thing to have during rather humid winter. There is a lovely common room with fireplace and small library. Free wifi. Breakfast costs 30 DH and is worth it. Spanish and French spoken.
*Great service staff, always willing to help. They have maps and can give information on the town. The rooms aren't special, and have the "cheap hotel" feel. They have hot water - and one cannot stress enough the importance of hot water during the cold months! Ask the desk for your TV remote. The lobby is quaint, and enjoying breakfast while listening to the hotel canary sing (it's a real bird - not a euphemism for a lounge singer) or watching English channels on the lobby TV is a great way to start the day.
* A charming Guest House below the water source.
* At 9km from Chefchaouen (Road to Bab-Taza and alhoceima)
* Near the Medina and Ras El Ma.
* Popular traveler hotel in the medina, often booked, is wise to call ahead. Breakfast is included.
* Inside the medina (Bab Souk entrance), freshly renovated. Most rooms have en suite bathrooms. Run by native Spanish speakers.
*A beautiful riad carefully decorated by the owners themselves, giving each bedroom an individual character full of warmth and beauty. The use of Tadlakt in the bathrooms, hammered copper sinks, beautifully painted wooden ceilings and hand crafted doors, modern glass bricks and crooked windows, Moroccan lamps and carpets all come together to give this riad a totally unique feel.
It also has a beautiful roof terrace with the most amazing views over the city, mountains and surrounding countryside.
* ) Gastronomic Restaurant with local specialities and local farm product
* It has 7 rooms, very well decorated and equipped rooms, and outdoor panoramic terrace to see the mountain views and enjoy a good breakfast and fresh fruit smoothies with a Welcome Tea. The friendly staff in the Hotel are very helpful in advising you on different activities such as excursions, hiking, mountain guides, hammam, etc.
Definitely avoid Hostel Bab el-Ain, at the entrance of the Medina. It is a dirty place, with cold shower, overvalued (50 Dh/person/night) and a primary destination for touts taking advantage of smoke tourists.
*Gusethouse with a unique interior , a charming and artistic furniture and an amazing sceneray that you can enjoy while relaxing in the terrace
*very friendly staff, nice welcoming rooms and a big and comfy roof terrace
*
*Three apartments in a restored house inside the ancient medina.
*Very cold and very noisy, and very over-priced. It is possible to stay in a beautiful place in Chaouen for Dh200 per night - this place is not worth Dh50. Shared bathroom is filthy, and the hostal is a magnet for touts, who hang around the corners outside and pester you. If you want to meet those who are here for a hashish-holiday then this is the place for you. Otherwise avoid at all costs!
Update (May/2014), I read bad reviews but I cannot confirm that -
I do not know if management has changed or if reviewers do not
compare to Marroc Standard : Dorm (wooden bulk beds) 60 DH; Rooftop
with mattress and Wind/Sun Protection possible (I do not ask the price). Privates cost 70-80 DH/pax. I have seen every day
(8am - 2pm) two housekeeping Ladies - it is not as dirty as
it sounds. Strange people on the street is a general annoyance, smoking is one main attraction. Both are not specific to the accommodation and to be expected (especially at Backpacker places
like this). If you are on budget then it is ok.
*A wonderful guesthouse, very tastefully decorated and friendly. Good WiFi. Book exchange. A truly amazing rooftop terrace with amazing views over the town. English owner is helpful with organising day trips and has good local knowledge. But he does like a smoke! Aimed at young flashpackers. The price is very competitive and offers single rooms for the lone traveller. Recommended
*Centrally located riad with clean and tastefully decorated rooms. Very friendly staff. Excellent breakfast. Nice roof terrace. WIFI signal throughout.
*Beautiful riad style building with lovely people looking after it. The owner and his family all speak Italian. Free Wifi. Has a terrace and a lounge to chill in.
*Amazing view of Chefchaouen from the roof terrace, much less crowded. The staff are very friendly and good place to meet other travellers. Beautiful and cheap place. Clean toilets. A night on the roof would cost 40Dh.
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As Chefchaouen is located on the edge of Morocco's marijuana growing region, touts desperate to extract money from travellers can be a serious problem. They can often be quite persistent and sometimes even threatening. However, smiling, remaining calm, and politely refusing (repeatedly) will usually work without a problem. Con artists are a persistent problem in Morocco, and Chefchaouen is no exception. There are some who will even pretend to be your friend for multiple days, show you the city, give you tips on where to stay, and then steal from you once you finally give them your trust after 3-4 days of spending time with you. Some of these people (such as Mohamed Elhasba, among others) are quite well-known for employing this lengthy confidence trick.
Travellers hiking in the Rif Mountain area close to the town have had stones thrown at them by armed men to scare them away from areas of marijuana production. While most of the growers may ignore you, some may offer to sell to you as well. While many travelers partake in or even come here specifically for the abundance of marijuana (hashish), understand that it is definitely illegal and heavily punishable. The best way to avoid running afoul of any local growers is to hire a sanctioned local guide.
Watch out for a restaurant close to one of the entrees to the Medina run by a really fat man who will charge you for everything that he gives you on the table. Several restaurant wont write the drinks on the menu and then charge 15 - 20DH for a soft drink. Always make sure you get the right change back some will try to steal five or ten DH. The change of getting tricked is higher in Chefchaouen than anywhere in Morocco and caution should be taken.
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A very pleasant circular short hike with views of the town is to walk from Ras al Ain towards the Spanish mosque and then to continue towards another mosque on a further hill. Before it on your left you will find a cafe with outstanding views run by a very friendly man providing basic snacks and drinks. Take the path to the right to return to the town.
If you come with a car, you can park at Parador Hotel open-air parking (10 Dhm / day). Very easy to find. Always pay when you leave to avoid paying twice. Even easier is the covered parking near the Hotel Madrid, signposted on your right as you drive uphill, 300 metres below Hotel Parador.
Regular buses depart from the long distance bus station (see 'Get Around') to destinations around Morocco:
* [wiki=ce71a80f1a74c844cc2cee8e136da045]Tetouan[/wiki] - hourly buses until 18:00; Dh 15, 90 minutes.
* [wiki=3d5a7deaa9855d6ed198e99341eda49f]Tangier[/wiki] - two buses daily, 9:00, 10:45; Dh 27, 3 hours. CTM bus once daily at 15:10, Dh 40.
* [wiki=fbed5c7b6db0d0d1328875d041a152cd]Rabat[/wiki] - four buses daily, the last at 13:00; Dh 50, 4 hours.
* [wiki=adf20488d00fb576b16546b1c93611b4]Casablanca[/wiki] - three morning buses, the last at 9:00; Dh 60, 5.5 hours.
* [wiki=a5290cc8f75aef5a1e60f30d37baae70]Meknes[/wiki] - three buses, 6:00, 14:15, 15:30; Dh 45, 4 hours.
* [wiki=9cd81bc40b0b095de9d29cbaffeb6ee3]Fez[/wiki] - four buses (CTM): 10:00, 13:15, 15:15, 18:00; Dh 75 for CTM, 4 hours.
* [wiki=87298fa01e1c9bad46f65a8731a1270f]Berbered[/wiki] and [wiki=b40f2e74c7dcda234592bc8a552bc659]Ketama[/wiki] - daily buses at 08:00; Dh 20, 3 hours.
* [wiki=3ae5639075c84924fe046fce5def5a2f]Oued Laou[/wiki] may have one daily bus
* [wiki=41391c4a6e0aed1277f6cc49d4c2dc33]Asilah[/wiki] local bus - change in Tetouan or Tangier
* Spain via Port Tangier MED(iterian); According to guys at the bus station it is easier/quicker to take a bus to Tangier and then a Bus (1 hour) to Tangier MED (operated by Supra@Tours outside bus station for 25 + 5 DH) instead of change bus in Tetouan (if there is any?). The highway to the port is a toll road.
Grand taxis to [wiki=ce71a80f1a74c844cc2cee8e136da045]Tetouan[/wiki] and [wiki=3d5a7deaa9855d6ed198e99341eda49f]Tangier[/wiki] depart from a street just off Plaza Mohammed V.
Tangier grand taxi is 70DH
There will also be rare taxis to Akchour from a taxi stand nearby:
*
The connection to [wiki=3ae5639075c84924fe046fce5def5a2f]Oued Laou[/wiki] is probematic, you may need to pay a full taxi (150-200Dh) or go via [wiki=ce71a80f1a74c844cc2cee8e136da045]Tetouan[/wiki] first.
Get to [wiki=b14c3890a187a7798035ac60d89b54f7]Ceuta[/wiki] by taking the bus through Tetouan to Fnideq and then taking a cab to the border. Ignore touts trying to sell you documents at the border, since they are free at the passport window. No CTM buses go to Ceuta, so you'll have to rely on regional ones. Don't pay more than 5Dh for a piece of luggage, and don't hand anybody big bills: they'll just walk away with them.
[wiki=0a6e49e35f9ce34785b7f94cde3ad1e7]de:Chefchaouen[/wiki]
[wiki=958fc479c05daa9e5ca0592eab230c60]fr:Chefchaouen[/wiki]
[wiki=67822d1e2034ccf40961e104b0482457]wts:Category:Chefchaouen[/wiki]
[[Wikipedia:Chefchaouen]]
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